The economic boom in English-speaking countries like the US and Ireland together with the stagnation of the Japanese economy has made Japan a less popular working location in recent years. The chances of meeting a wealthy Japanese person in a bar or on the train who is willing to give you wads of cash just to sit and chat in a cofee shop are not what they used to be. But the obsession with learning English continues and the fact that it's still possible to get a reasonable, or better, working wage simply by virtue of being a native speaker of a foreign language continues to bring new faces to the country every year.
And many people see Japan as a land of future opportunities. Changes to the economic landscape are being wrought by deregulation and the Internet and more foreign companies than ever are expanding into this, the world's second-largest market. Language and cultural barriers have long been embedded in the distinct Japanese style of doing business, but even this is beginning to change. There is hope for a higher English fluency rate in the not-too-distant future but teachers will always be needed.
Long-standing cornerstones of business practice, such as guaranteed lifetime employment and rigid keiretsu corporate affiliations are being undermined. Foreigners have been brought in to make some painful changes, such as the massive cuts at Nissan, that local managers just can't seem to bring themselves to carry out. So whether you're interested in making some yen to finance a back-packing trip around Southeast Asia or taking over the helm at a future multinational corporation, we hope we can be of some assistance.
Teaching
Teaching, and in particular English teaching, is by far the most popular form of employment for westerners in Japan. It can be a short-term or a long-term thing, with a professional or casual basis, and the major eikaiwa (English conversation) schools offer short training periods and don't expect most teachers to stay beyond their one or two-year contract. For those hoping to come to Japan to teach, things took a turn for the worse when the country's biggest chain school Nova went bust in 2007.
Read our guide to teaching in Japan.
Other Jobs
While teaching is an ideal job for someone in the country only temporarily, there are several other options available. Visa restrictions make some of them more suitable as a 'moonlighting' option while others provide sponsorship and various benefits.
Bar & restaurant work
The 90's saw a high level of internationalisation in Japan and one obvious result was the increase in the number of western bars and restaurants. The latter half of the decade saw a veritable boom in Irish and British pubs as well as various sports and other theme bars. Most have at least one 'authentic' foreign barman (the job's not popular among foreign women). Italian, Indian and various other world cuisines continue to be popular and some restaurants employ foreign staff. Hourly pay rates (usually around 1,200 yen) are around the lower end of what you could expect to make teaching.
Acting/modelling
These are two areas that can be very lucrative and surprisingly easy to get into, though the work doesn't usually just fall into your lap and some effort is required to get started. The number of foreigners in Japan is now such that we don't stand out as much as even ten years ago and you'll have to actually do some legwork to get hired. If you've already been in the business at home, you have a definite head-start in Japan and will most likely find the agencies very welcoming. But there is enough demand for foreign faces on TV shows, commercials, music videos, movies etc that you'll most likely find some work easily enough. The hard part for a new arrival is knowing who to contact. There are a few foreigners with experience in the business who've put together "info packs" with all the details you need to get started. You can find this through their websites (see below).
Entertainment
Hostessing used to have a similar aura to English teaching in terms of the potential to make a lot of money in a short period of time. The main source of this money was also the same - wealthy businessmen getting ever wealthier in the bubble economy. For these nouveau riche, hanging out with a foreigner, whether it was an English teacher or a beautiful woman, was part of the game. The economy took a nosedive in the 90's and with it went extravagant pay rates. Hostessing still pays more on average than teaching but the hours are usually late and the company can be as unsavoury as ever. Sexism is still the norm in Japan and women are often judged on their appearance - this is particularly so in hostessing and is often directly related to one's rate of pay.
Computer work
These days, fast-changing IT and financial companies compete with each other in a search for the right staff and recruitment companies also advertise regularly for professional and managerial staff. Contract work has become more common, especially in the areas of networks, DTP and multimedia. There are several companies that specialize in finding and placing foreign staff.
Translation/rewriting
Another area open to native speakers is translation/rewriting, and of course the right background and experience go a long way. Qualifications in things like engineering, medicine and law are useful for rewriting work, while Japanese language ability is obviously a major factor in getting translation work. Most companies want someone with experience and having a portfolio and references is a good idea.
JET Program
The JET (Japan Exchange and Teaching) Program is usually thought of as being for teaching English only. In fact, it also provides positions for SEA's (Sports Exchange Advisors) and CIR's (Coordinators for International Relations) who work at local governments around the country. The latter have been very useful in the creation of official English-language Web sites for various cities and prefectures. They also promote international exchange events and provide translation and interpretation services.
Thursday, June 25, 2009
Pachinko
How big is the pachinko business in Japan? Well, it employs a third of a million people, three times more than the steel industry; it commands 40 percent of Japan's leisure industry, including restaurants and bars; and with 30 million regular enthusiasts coughing up more 30 trillion yen a year (a higher turnover than the car industry), it's very big business indeed. So big, that foreign businesses are getting in on the act. While much of the pachinko industry has long been controlled by residents of Korean descent, in early 2001 British company BS Group bought a stake in Tokyo Plaza, who run about 20 parlors in Japan, and have also opened parlors in the UK.
If you want to play pachinko, you won't have to look very hard to find a parlor. There's usually at least one near every train station and where there is no station (ie in the countryside) just look out for the gariest, ugliest building you can find. That's it - the big silver box in the middle of nowhere covered in neon signs and flashing lights. As soon as you step up to the electric doors and they slide open, the noise - and usually the smell - hits you. This is not a place for casual conversation or requests for the no-smoking section. The wall of noise might seem unpleasant to the newcomer but it seems to help the serious gamblers, or pachi-puro, to concentrate or perhaps to just switch off as they sit in silence in front of their chosen machines. Sometimes they're there all day - it's common to see people lining up outside a parlor first thing in the morning, waiting to get the machine they think is going to pay up and almost as common to see them come out in the afternoon or evening having won - or lost a day's pay or more.
A typical pachinko machine. The balls are fed into the machine using the green handle on the bottom right. A close-up of the playing area of a digital machine. This one is called "Go-go Akko-chan" and is named after Wada Akiko, a popular TV personality. The entrance to a small urban pachinko parlor in Saitama Prefecture. Parlors in rural areas can be many times larger and garier. Signboards outside announce the arrival of new machines or promo campaigns.
The first thing you do is use cash or these days increasingly a prepaid card to buy a tray of what this game is all about - balls. Small steel balls, resembling ball bearings, to be exact (you can often spot the pachi-puro by the ball or 100 yen coin forgetfully left wedged in their ear). You'll pay about 4 yen per ball and while you can buy just 100 yen's worth, no serious gambler would start by spending less than a few thousand yen. A variation on pachinko that has become very popular recently is pachislo, which is a combination of pachinko and slot machine and uses coin-like coupons.
Pachinko is played on what looks like a vertical pinball machine. The steel balls are released into the machine and fall through a maze of nail-like pins. The idea is to get the balls to fall into slots where they accumulate and to aim for jackpots, which pay out thousands more balls. There are three main types of machines with different levels of skill required. In the oldest style of machine, the positioning of the pins greatly affected the payout so they would be tapped into minutely different locations by specialists each night after closing - hence the morning queues for the best machines. These days the more popular deji-pachi (digital pachinko) machines have an LCD display in the center showing colorful animations that indicate your jackpot, or "fever". The noisy animations often feature popular cartoon characters or hentai (erotic) anime. Computer settings are only adjusted every few days so the pros watch out for the big payers. The winnings that you're aiming for are actually the same balls that you put in, hopefully multiplied a few times. They usually have a cash value of about 2.5 yen each.
Though the win ratios are set by the government, parlors are believed to often manipulate them such as by increasing jackpots on busy days to draw people back again. On the other hand, resourceful players resort to using ingenious electronic or magnetic devices to try and hotwire the digital machines into making big payouts. Parlors are not legally allowed to actually pay out cash. So you take your trays of balls and exchange them for prizes like washing powder, cigarettes and brand goods or tokens that can be cashed in at a nearby hole-in-the-wall. Similar to cashing in your chips at a casino except for the fact that it's a flagrant manipulation of the law. These places then sell the tokens back to the parlor, with their cut on top.
The long economic downturn has not stopped people from playing pachinko. Indeed economic desperation has forced many to turn to gambling as a last resort. But changing attitudes and lifestyles have eroded the customer base and forced companies to try to attract new kinds of customers. Leading machine maker Sankyo has employed Hollywood star Nicholas Cage to appear in a series of TV commercials where he played a pachinko freak. Parlors with bars and cafes, women-only sections, fountains and luxury furniture are just some of the other ideas for bringing this Japanese way of life into the 21st century.
If you want to play pachinko, you won't have to look very hard to find a parlor. There's usually at least one near every train station and where there is no station (ie in the countryside) just look out for the gariest, ugliest building you can find. That's it - the big silver box in the middle of nowhere covered in neon signs and flashing lights. As soon as you step up to the electric doors and they slide open, the noise - and usually the smell - hits you. This is not a place for casual conversation or requests for the no-smoking section. The wall of noise might seem unpleasant to the newcomer but it seems to help the serious gamblers, or pachi-puro, to concentrate or perhaps to just switch off as they sit in silence in front of their chosen machines. Sometimes they're there all day - it's common to see people lining up outside a parlor first thing in the morning, waiting to get the machine they think is going to pay up and almost as common to see them come out in the afternoon or evening having won - or lost a day's pay or more.
A typical pachinko machine. The balls are fed into the machine using the green handle on the bottom right. A close-up of the playing area of a digital machine. This one is called "Go-go Akko-chan" and is named after Wada Akiko, a popular TV personality. The entrance to a small urban pachinko parlor in Saitama Prefecture. Parlors in rural areas can be many times larger and garier. Signboards outside announce the arrival of new machines or promo campaigns.
The first thing you do is use cash or these days increasingly a prepaid card to buy a tray of what this game is all about - balls. Small steel balls, resembling ball bearings, to be exact (you can often spot the pachi-puro by the ball or 100 yen coin forgetfully left wedged in their ear). You'll pay about 4 yen per ball and while you can buy just 100 yen's worth, no serious gambler would start by spending less than a few thousand yen. A variation on pachinko that has become very popular recently is pachislo, which is a combination of pachinko and slot machine and uses coin-like coupons.
Pachinko is played on what looks like a vertical pinball machine. The steel balls are released into the machine and fall through a maze of nail-like pins. The idea is to get the balls to fall into slots where they accumulate and to aim for jackpots, which pay out thousands more balls. There are three main types of machines with different levels of skill required. In the oldest style of machine, the positioning of the pins greatly affected the payout so they would be tapped into minutely different locations by specialists each night after closing - hence the morning queues for the best machines. These days the more popular deji-pachi (digital pachinko) machines have an LCD display in the center showing colorful animations that indicate your jackpot, or "fever". The noisy animations often feature popular cartoon characters or hentai (erotic) anime. Computer settings are only adjusted every few days so the pros watch out for the big payers. The winnings that you're aiming for are actually the same balls that you put in, hopefully multiplied a few times. They usually have a cash value of about 2.5 yen each.
Though the win ratios are set by the government, parlors are believed to often manipulate them such as by increasing jackpots on busy days to draw people back again. On the other hand, resourceful players resort to using ingenious electronic or magnetic devices to try and hotwire the digital machines into making big payouts. Parlors are not legally allowed to actually pay out cash. So you take your trays of balls and exchange them for prizes like washing powder, cigarettes and brand goods or tokens that can be cashed in at a nearby hole-in-the-wall. Similar to cashing in your chips at a casino except for the fact that it's a flagrant manipulation of the law. These places then sell the tokens back to the parlor, with their cut on top.
The long economic downturn has not stopped people from playing pachinko. Indeed economic desperation has forced many to turn to gambling as a last resort. But changing attitudes and lifestyles have eroded the customer base and forced companies to try to attract new kinds of customers. Leading machine maker Sankyo has employed Hollywood star Nicholas Cage to appear in a series of TV commercials where he played a pachinko freak. Parlors with bars and cafes, women-only sections, fountains and luxury furniture are just some of the other ideas for bringing this Japanese way of life into the 21st century.
Ryoko
Yonekura Ryoko (Yokohama, Kanagawa Prefecture, 1975- )
These days, former ballerina Yonekura Ryoko is one of the most visible women on TV and in fashion. She and her most obvious rival Kikukawa Rei have dominated the world of glamour, appearing in dozens of TV commercials and gracing the covers of countless magazines. They are both members of the Oscar Productions agency, which represents many of Japan's most beautiful stars. Yonekura has won a slew of (admittedly meaningless) awards with titles such as Miss Brilliant, Jewellry Best Dresser, Nail Queen, and Best Leather-nist!
Yonekura made her move into the fashion world at the age of 17 when she was awarded a consolation prize at the National Young Beauty contest in 1992. Over the next seven years she built up quite a reputation as a fashion model, campaign girl and in TV commercials. In 1999 she announced her intention of getting into acting. She made her debut the following year in the TBS drama Koi no Kamisama (God of Love) and has since appeared in one drama after another almost non-stop.
She made her movie debut in Damboru Hausu Garu (Homeless Girl) and in 2002 she co-starred with Kikukawa in Gun Crazy. The duo played a pair of "gun-toting killer babes". Enough said. Her 2002 drama series Seikei Bijin (Artificial Beauty) also aired in the US. The series dealt with the curently hot topic of cosmetic surgery.
Click photos to see larger version.
Yonekura maintains her interest in ballet and other forms of dance, such as bossa nova and salsa. These certainly seem to suit her bubbly and dynamic personality and she seems to be making this kind of acting role her niche. She may not win any awards for acting but she's always got that Best Jeanist trophy to put on the mantelpiece.
These days, former ballerina Yonekura Ryoko is one of the most visible women on TV and in fashion. She and her most obvious rival Kikukawa Rei have dominated the world of glamour, appearing in dozens of TV commercials and gracing the covers of countless magazines. They are both members of the Oscar Productions agency, which represents many of Japan's most beautiful stars. Yonekura has won a slew of (admittedly meaningless) awards with titles such as Miss Brilliant, Jewellry Best Dresser, Nail Queen, and Best Leather-nist!
Yonekura made her move into the fashion world at the age of 17 when she was awarded a consolation prize at the National Young Beauty contest in 1992. Over the next seven years she built up quite a reputation as a fashion model, campaign girl and in TV commercials. In 1999 she announced her intention of getting into acting. She made her debut the following year in the TBS drama Koi no Kamisama (God of Love) and has since appeared in one drama after another almost non-stop.
She made her movie debut in Damboru Hausu Garu (Homeless Girl) and in 2002 she co-starred with Kikukawa in Gun Crazy. The duo played a pair of "gun-toting killer babes". Enough said. Her 2002 drama series Seikei Bijin (Artificial Beauty) also aired in the US. The series dealt with the curently hot topic of cosmetic surgery.
Click photos to see larger version.
Yonekura maintains her interest in ballet and other forms of dance, such as bossa nova and salsa. These certainly seem to suit her bubbly and dynamic personality and she seems to be making this kind of acting role her niche. She may not win any awards for acting but she's always got that Best Jeanist trophy to put on the mantelpiece.
Pop
Think about it - Sony Music Entertainment is one of the biggest record companies in the world; Yamaha is the largest manufacturer of musical instruments in the world; Japan has the sixth-largest population in the world; the music industry generates billions and billions of dollars worldwide every year. Yet how many Japanese artists have had a No. 1 hit in the US or European charts? One. Yes, one - and that was way back in 1963 (Sukiyaki by Sakamoto Kyu).
Related content: check out our many profiles of Japan's top pop artists.
So what's the problem with Japan? Several things - record companies are happy with the huge domestic sales racked up by the bands under their control (literally); the language barrier is a problem, with few Japanese feeling comfortable speaking or singing in English; and the fact that there is no market for the vast majority of Japanese pop music outside of Asia (other Asian countries have a strange admiration for all things Japanese, including the music).
There have been a few bright spots over the years but they're few and far between. Bands with musical talent, like Southern All Stars, Chage and Aska or Dreams Come True turn out records with some songs that stay with you but nothing that would break them in the US or Europe. In the 90's, other bands, like Shonen Knife, Pizzicato Five, Cibo Matto and Buffalo Daughter have a cult following abroad but little commercial success.
The Japanese music scene 1958~1990
The pop/rock music scene has gone through a few different stages over the years. The rockabilly sounds of the late 50's became popular in the cities of Japan just after they revolutionised the US music scene. Young guys and gals flocked to see the stars of the day do their best impersonations of Elvis and Gene Vincent at the Western Festival in Tokyo in Februaury 1958.
In the 60's, it was the Beatles and the Rolling Stones who inspired the imitation of local groups. Ereki (electric) guitar music was the in sound of what became known as the Group Sounds phenomenon. The best known local bands of the decade include the Tigers and the Spiders. The Tigers were the first band to play the Budokan, then the biggest indoor arena in the country. 1965 saw the first successful tour by US surf-sound band the Ventures, who have retained their huge popularity to this day. Record industry overkill finished off the Group Sounds era and the seventies saw the arrival of New Rock and the Idols.
Chage and Aska
Pizzicato Five
Aidoru (idol) was the word used to describe cute, girl-next-door singers who were designed, controlled and marketed just like any other product. In fact, for the talent agencies, having these starlets chosen to be the face of a candy bar or instant noodles in a TV commercial was as much part of the plan as selling records. The 70's and 80's saw hundreds of these idols come and go, such as Pink Lady, Yamaguchi Momoe, Tanokin Trio and The Candies. Pink Lady had nine No.1 hits in a row between 1976 and 1978 before disappearing without trace.
The 80's saw a degree of international success for the techno-pop of YMO (Yellow Magic Orchestra). Band member Sakamoto Ryuichi went on to become the best known Japanese musician in the world but with little commercial success outside of movie soundtracks. The decade also saw the peak of so-called New Music, a fusion of folk, rock and pop typified by singer/songwriter Matsutoya Yumi, or Yuming. The top rock bands of the 80's included Southern All Stars, Kome Kome Club, Checkers and Princess Princess.
Get the latest J-Pop CDs, videos and more at the best prices at YesAsia.com
The 1990's and beyond
Although the heyday of the idols was in the 80's, the musical artists of the Johnny's Jimusho talent agency such as SMAP, V6 and Kinki Kids have ruled the airwaves for the best part of the decade. Having their own TV shows keeps them in the public eye even when they're between singles or tours. Together with artists 'created' by producer Komuro Tetsuya, they have ensured that bland pop music by youngsters who can't sing or play has been the hallmark of the genre known as J-pop. The mid-90's saw Komuro make it as an artist with the groups TM Network and globe. He then moved up a gear to exploit aspiring singers and fans alike to become one of the richest men in Japan. In his breakthrough year, 1995, Komuro's music made some 27 billion yen and the following year he had 5 of the top ten singles. His many creations include the Avex Trax label and artists trf, Amuro Namie and Kahala Tomomi.
Another former musician turned producer is Tsunku. He 'temporarily' retired from his position as frontman for the group Sharan-Q to become an 'idol-maker'. Few expected the huge success he pulled off with Morning Musume. This ever-evolving girl group literally took the J-Pop scene by storm following their TV creation in 1997. The 'Tsunku family' has continued to grow into a financial and promotional monster, with the Musumes and gaggles of other young starlets in what is called the Hello! Project constantly changing places, forming new offshoot groups and advertising everything under the sun. The sheer money-making capacity of this operation ensures that it will be with us for some time to come.
Hamasaki Ayumi was something of a new breed in the late 1990s - a young female singer with drive and ambition... and a good nose for marketing. This reputed ego-centric diva caught the fancy of the all-important high-school girl market, and became their unofficial fashion leader. This coupled with the income from her royalties - she writes her own material - helped her establish her position of power in the industry. In recent years, that position has been largely usurped by Koda Kumi, ironically also on Ayu's Avex label. She made good use of her sexy image and bubbly Kansai personality and rose from being a club singer to the country's biggest selling artist in 2006 and 2007.
V6
Glay
Utada Hikaru
Lest you think that Japanese popular music is all commercialism and void of any artistic merit, I should mention that there are some the more talented artists who have made the big time. 1999 saw the group Glay play to a crowd of 200,000, surely some kind of record. The 4-man group from Hokkaido play fairly standard J-Rock but they've built their succes through hard work and a solid 'rock n roll' image. The late 90's also saw some more western-style artists, such as Dragon Ash and Utada Hikaru explode onto the scene. Dragon Ash play a mixture of rap and rock and show that - at least when they manage to turn out a good single - Japanese can rap with the best of them.
Born in New York, the 16-year old Utada debuted in 1999 and though she looked just like another idol, she was clearly something completely new. She wrote and sang her own songs with a soulfulness beyond her years. Her good looks didn't do any harm and 'First Love' became the best-selling Japanese debut album, with almost 8 million copies sold. Like other artists, there were immediate tie-ins with commercials and TV appearances but Utada's experience of life outside the Japanese music scene helped her to rise above it. At the age of just 18, she became the youngest artist to appear on MTV's Unplugged show. Utada's success plus the growing power wielded by Hamasaki Ayumi paved the way for other independent-minded young women, such as Koyanagi Yuki and Shiina Ringo to get their break into the big time.
I'm not too au-fait with what's going on in current Japanese alternative, indie and club music. But some of the artists that I've been impressed with are: Thee Michelle Gun Elephant (a kind of Japanese Ramones), The Mad Capsule Markets, Buffalo Daughter, Seagull Screaming Kiss Her Kiss Her, Boom Boom Satellites and Captain Funk.
Related content: check out our many profiles of Japan's top pop artists.
So what's the problem with Japan? Several things - record companies are happy with the huge domestic sales racked up by the bands under their control (literally); the language barrier is a problem, with few Japanese feeling comfortable speaking or singing in English; and the fact that there is no market for the vast majority of Japanese pop music outside of Asia (other Asian countries have a strange admiration for all things Japanese, including the music).
There have been a few bright spots over the years but they're few and far between. Bands with musical talent, like Southern All Stars, Chage and Aska or Dreams Come True turn out records with some songs that stay with you but nothing that would break them in the US or Europe. In the 90's, other bands, like Shonen Knife, Pizzicato Five, Cibo Matto and Buffalo Daughter have a cult following abroad but little commercial success.
The Japanese music scene 1958~1990
The pop/rock music scene has gone through a few different stages over the years. The rockabilly sounds of the late 50's became popular in the cities of Japan just after they revolutionised the US music scene. Young guys and gals flocked to see the stars of the day do their best impersonations of Elvis and Gene Vincent at the Western Festival in Tokyo in Februaury 1958.
In the 60's, it was the Beatles and the Rolling Stones who inspired the imitation of local groups. Ereki (electric) guitar music was the in sound of what became known as the Group Sounds phenomenon. The best known local bands of the decade include the Tigers and the Spiders. The Tigers were the first band to play the Budokan, then the biggest indoor arena in the country. 1965 saw the first successful tour by US surf-sound band the Ventures, who have retained their huge popularity to this day. Record industry overkill finished off the Group Sounds era and the seventies saw the arrival of New Rock and the Idols.
Chage and Aska
Pizzicato Five
Aidoru (idol) was the word used to describe cute, girl-next-door singers who were designed, controlled and marketed just like any other product. In fact, for the talent agencies, having these starlets chosen to be the face of a candy bar or instant noodles in a TV commercial was as much part of the plan as selling records. The 70's and 80's saw hundreds of these idols come and go, such as Pink Lady, Yamaguchi Momoe, Tanokin Trio and The Candies. Pink Lady had nine No.1 hits in a row between 1976 and 1978 before disappearing without trace.
The 80's saw a degree of international success for the techno-pop of YMO (Yellow Magic Orchestra). Band member Sakamoto Ryuichi went on to become the best known Japanese musician in the world but with little commercial success outside of movie soundtracks. The decade also saw the peak of so-called New Music, a fusion of folk, rock and pop typified by singer/songwriter Matsutoya Yumi, or Yuming. The top rock bands of the 80's included Southern All Stars, Kome Kome Club, Checkers and Princess Princess.
Get the latest J-Pop CDs, videos and more at the best prices at YesAsia.com
The 1990's and beyond
Although the heyday of the idols was in the 80's, the musical artists of the Johnny's Jimusho talent agency such as SMAP, V6 and Kinki Kids have ruled the airwaves for the best part of the decade. Having their own TV shows keeps them in the public eye even when they're between singles or tours. Together with artists 'created' by producer Komuro Tetsuya, they have ensured that bland pop music by youngsters who can't sing or play has been the hallmark of the genre known as J-pop. The mid-90's saw Komuro make it as an artist with the groups TM Network and globe. He then moved up a gear to exploit aspiring singers and fans alike to become one of the richest men in Japan. In his breakthrough year, 1995, Komuro's music made some 27 billion yen and the following year he had 5 of the top ten singles. His many creations include the Avex Trax label and artists trf, Amuro Namie and Kahala Tomomi.
Another former musician turned producer is Tsunku. He 'temporarily' retired from his position as frontman for the group Sharan-Q to become an 'idol-maker'. Few expected the huge success he pulled off with Morning Musume. This ever-evolving girl group literally took the J-Pop scene by storm following their TV creation in 1997. The 'Tsunku family' has continued to grow into a financial and promotional monster, with the Musumes and gaggles of other young starlets in what is called the Hello! Project constantly changing places, forming new offshoot groups and advertising everything under the sun. The sheer money-making capacity of this operation ensures that it will be with us for some time to come.
Hamasaki Ayumi was something of a new breed in the late 1990s - a young female singer with drive and ambition... and a good nose for marketing. This reputed ego-centric diva caught the fancy of the all-important high-school girl market, and became their unofficial fashion leader. This coupled with the income from her royalties - she writes her own material - helped her establish her position of power in the industry. In recent years, that position has been largely usurped by Koda Kumi, ironically also on Ayu's Avex label. She made good use of her sexy image and bubbly Kansai personality and rose from being a club singer to the country's biggest selling artist in 2006 and 2007.
V6
Glay
Utada Hikaru
Lest you think that Japanese popular music is all commercialism and void of any artistic merit, I should mention that there are some the more talented artists who have made the big time. 1999 saw the group Glay play to a crowd of 200,000, surely some kind of record. The 4-man group from Hokkaido play fairly standard J-Rock but they've built their succes through hard work and a solid 'rock n roll' image. The late 90's also saw some more western-style artists, such as Dragon Ash and Utada Hikaru explode onto the scene. Dragon Ash play a mixture of rap and rock and show that - at least when they manage to turn out a good single - Japanese can rap with the best of them.
Born in New York, the 16-year old Utada debuted in 1999 and though she looked just like another idol, she was clearly something completely new. She wrote and sang her own songs with a soulfulness beyond her years. Her good looks didn't do any harm and 'First Love' became the best-selling Japanese debut album, with almost 8 million copies sold. Like other artists, there were immediate tie-ins with commercials and TV appearances but Utada's experience of life outside the Japanese music scene helped her to rise above it. At the age of just 18, she became the youngest artist to appear on MTV's Unplugged show. Utada's success plus the growing power wielded by Hamasaki Ayumi paved the way for other independent-minded young women, such as Koyanagi Yuki and Shiina Ringo to get their break into the big time.
I'm not too au-fait with what's going on in current Japanese alternative, indie and club music. But some of the artists that I've been impressed with are: Thee Michelle Gun Elephant (a kind of Japanese Ramones), The Mad Capsule Markets, Buffalo Daughter, Seagull Screaming Kiss Her Kiss Her, Boom Boom Satellites and Captain Funk.
Royal Family
The Japanese Imperial family is the oldest hereditary monarchy in the world. The family's lineage dates back to the sixth century BC, though the title of Tenno (emperor) or Sumera-Mikoto (heavenly sovereign) was assumed by rulers in the sixth or seventh century and has been used since. The family crest (above) is the kiku, or chrysanthemum.
The role of the Emperor (and occasionally the Empress - there have been 8 to date) has varied in importance. Considered a divine being until the end of World War II, the postwar Constitution made him the "Symbol of the state". He plays a largely ceremonial part in the life of the nation.
Origins and early history
According to the historical chronicles of ancient Japan, the Kojiki (Record of Ancient Matters, AD712) and the Nihon Shoki (Chronicle of Japan, AD720), the sun goddess Amaterasu Omikami presented the sanshu no jingi or Imperial Regalia to her grandson, Ninigi no Mikoto. He in turn passed them on to his descendants, the emperors, the first of whom was Emperor Jimmu. The regalia, a mirror, a sword and a curved jewel are symbols of the legitimacy and authority of the emperor. These creation myths also form the foundations of the indigenous Shinto faith.
The emperor was thought to possess magical powers and to converse with the gods. It was therefore considered beneath him to become involved in the day-to-day running of the country. This was left to ministers and advisors. An exception was the period between the 7th and 8th centuries during which several emperors tried to bring the regional clans under central Imperial control. The first emperor to establish such direct imperial rule, modelled after the Chinese Tang dynasty, was Emperor Tenji who ruled between 661 and 672. Later during the Nara Period (710~794) Prince Shotoku, son of the Empress Suiko, created Japan's first constitution and established Buddhism as the country's dominant religion.
At the beginning of the Heian Period (794~1185), Emperor Kammu established a new capital in Kyoto, a city designed based on the Chinese capital. A combination of efforts to free the emperor from the web of entrenched bureaucracy and the court's increasing preoccupation with the pursuit of the arts and literature led to a situation where the real power was held by those occupying the posts of regent, for emperors not yet of age, and chief advisor. These posts were dominated by the Fujiwara and later the Taira families. While making no claim to the emperor's title or ritual role, the clans basically ruled in his name for several centuries.
Except for a period during the 14th century when the Emperor Godaigo briefly restored imperial rule, for almost the next 700 years, Japan was ruled by a succession of Shoguns, or military leaders. It wasn't until Tokugawa Ieyasu became Shogun of the recently reunited Japan at the beginning of the Edo Period (1600~1868) that the imperial institution regained some of its former glory, if not its power. While the Tokugawa's ruled from Edo (now Tokyo), the imperial court was in Kyoto and performed duties that, while important to the shogunate, were mostly religious rituals.
Early modern period
During the Edo Period, a time of great cultural advancement but also of almost total isolation, a school of intellectuals known as kinno-ha, or imperial loyalists, developed their concept of Japanese identity with the emperor at its symbolic center. Faced with foreign pressure to 'open up' the country to foreign trade and diplomacy following the arrival of US Commodore Matthew C. Perry's 'Black Ships' in 1853, this concept was adopted as a rallying cry to defenders from the foreign threat. By 1868, they had succeeded in toppling the Tokugawa shogunate and establishing a new national government under direct imperial rule - the Meiji Restoration (analogies to this period of revolutionary change are often made by today's radical politicians).
The Meiji leaders spent the next twenty years experimenting with the imperial system before creating the Constitution of the Empire of Japan in 1889. The emperor was 'sacred and inviolable' and sovereignty rested with him as the Head of the Empire. He commanded the armed forces, declared war and concluded treaties. All laws required the his sanction and enforcement. And yet he had no real political power; his main role was to ratify and give the imperial stamp of approval to decisions made by his ministers.
Post World War II
Following Japan's defeat in World War II, the occupation forces carried out radical reforms of the country's government and imperial systems. While there were calls for the emperor to stand trial at the 1946 Tokyo Tribunal and for the imperial system to be completely abolished, a more moderate approach was taken. The emperor had no political powers and under Article 1 of the new 'Showa' constitution he became 'the symbol of the State and of the unity of the people, deriving his position from the will of the people with whom resides sovereign power'. His role was purely symbolic and his functions subject to cabinet approval. The emperor himself declared in a New Year's Day radio broadcast that he was 'not divine'.
During the postwar period, efforts were made to bring the imperial family closer to the people, no longer his 'subjects' but citizens. Certainly there is great affection among Japanese people for their 'royals' as could be seen at the funeral of Emperor Hirohito in 1989 or the marriage of Crown Prince Naruhito to Princess Masako in 1993. The eagerly anticipated birth of a male heir to the Crown Prince was even thought of in terms of an event that could spark Japan's economic revival. The fact that his and Masako's first child was a girl (Aiko) and Masako was reaching an age where another child was increasingly unlikely, there were renewed moves to revise the Imperial House Law to allow female members of the family to ascend to the throne. This was proposed on the grounds of sexual equality and the fact that there have been 8 women on the throne in the past. The birth of a son to Prince Akishino and Princess Kiko in September 2006 may have put this issue on the shelf for another generation.
The role of the Emperor (and occasionally the Empress - there have been 8 to date) has varied in importance. Considered a divine being until the end of World War II, the postwar Constitution made him the "Symbol of the state". He plays a largely ceremonial part in the life of the nation.
Origins and early history
According to the historical chronicles of ancient Japan, the Kojiki (Record of Ancient Matters, AD712) and the Nihon Shoki (Chronicle of Japan, AD720), the sun goddess Amaterasu Omikami presented the sanshu no jingi or Imperial Regalia to her grandson, Ninigi no Mikoto. He in turn passed them on to his descendants, the emperors, the first of whom was Emperor Jimmu. The regalia, a mirror, a sword and a curved jewel are symbols of the legitimacy and authority of the emperor. These creation myths also form the foundations of the indigenous Shinto faith.
The emperor was thought to possess magical powers and to converse with the gods. It was therefore considered beneath him to become involved in the day-to-day running of the country. This was left to ministers and advisors. An exception was the period between the 7th and 8th centuries during which several emperors tried to bring the regional clans under central Imperial control. The first emperor to establish such direct imperial rule, modelled after the Chinese Tang dynasty, was Emperor Tenji who ruled between 661 and 672. Later during the Nara Period (710~794) Prince Shotoku, son of the Empress Suiko, created Japan's first constitution and established Buddhism as the country's dominant religion.
At the beginning of the Heian Period (794~1185), Emperor Kammu established a new capital in Kyoto, a city designed based on the Chinese capital. A combination of efforts to free the emperor from the web of entrenched bureaucracy and the court's increasing preoccupation with the pursuit of the arts and literature led to a situation where the real power was held by those occupying the posts of regent, for emperors not yet of age, and chief advisor. These posts were dominated by the Fujiwara and later the Taira families. While making no claim to the emperor's title or ritual role, the clans basically ruled in his name for several centuries.
Except for a period during the 14th century when the Emperor Godaigo briefly restored imperial rule, for almost the next 700 years, Japan was ruled by a succession of Shoguns, or military leaders. It wasn't until Tokugawa Ieyasu became Shogun of the recently reunited Japan at the beginning of the Edo Period (1600~1868) that the imperial institution regained some of its former glory, if not its power. While the Tokugawa's ruled from Edo (now Tokyo), the imperial court was in Kyoto and performed duties that, while important to the shogunate, were mostly religious rituals.
Early modern period
During the Edo Period, a time of great cultural advancement but also of almost total isolation, a school of intellectuals known as kinno-ha, or imperial loyalists, developed their concept of Japanese identity with the emperor at its symbolic center. Faced with foreign pressure to 'open up' the country to foreign trade and diplomacy following the arrival of US Commodore Matthew C. Perry's 'Black Ships' in 1853, this concept was adopted as a rallying cry to defenders from the foreign threat. By 1868, they had succeeded in toppling the Tokugawa shogunate and establishing a new national government under direct imperial rule - the Meiji Restoration (analogies to this period of revolutionary change are often made by today's radical politicians).
The Meiji leaders spent the next twenty years experimenting with the imperial system before creating the Constitution of the Empire of Japan in 1889. The emperor was 'sacred and inviolable' and sovereignty rested with him as the Head of the Empire. He commanded the armed forces, declared war and concluded treaties. All laws required the his sanction and enforcement. And yet he had no real political power; his main role was to ratify and give the imperial stamp of approval to decisions made by his ministers.
Post World War II
Following Japan's defeat in World War II, the occupation forces carried out radical reforms of the country's government and imperial systems. While there were calls for the emperor to stand trial at the 1946 Tokyo Tribunal and for the imperial system to be completely abolished, a more moderate approach was taken. The emperor had no political powers and under Article 1 of the new 'Showa' constitution he became 'the symbol of the State and of the unity of the people, deriving his position from the will of the people with whom resides sovereign power'. His role was purely symbolic and his functions subject to cabinet approval. The emperor himself declared in a New Year's Day radio broadcast that he was 'not divine'.
During the postwar period, efforts were made to bring the imperial family closer to the people, no longer his 'subjects' but citizens. Certainly there is great affection among Japanese people for their 'royals' as could be seen at the funeral of Emperor Hirohito in 1989 or the marriage of Crown Prince Naruhito to Princess Masako in 1993. The eagerly anticipated birth of a male heir to the Crown Prince was even thought of in terms of an event that could spark Japan's economic revival. The fact that his and Masako's first child was a girl (Aiko) and Masako was reaching an age where another child was increasingly unlikely, there were renewed moves to revise the Imperial House Law to allow female members of the family to ascend to the throne. This was proposed on the grounds of sexual equality and the fact that there have been 8 women on the throne in the past. The birth of a son to Prince Akishino and Princess Kiko in September 2006 may have put this issue on the shelf for another generation.
UKiyo-e
Waitress Okita from the Naniwaya Tearoom - Utamaro
The name of this art form literally means pictures of the floating world. The term 'floating world' refers to a generally hedonistic way of life, and was often used as a euphemism for the bars and houses of ill-repute which were so popular among artists and literary types in pre-war Japan. Ukiyo-e wood-block prints first appeared early in the Edo Period (1600~1868) and depicted stories set in this after-hours world. Flashy kabuki actors and stylish courtesans were the most popular subjects. Later artists started depicting scenes from nature and works such as Hokusai's views of Mt. Fuji (see below) are among the most famous today.
The prints were a collaboration between artist, publisher, wood-block carver and printer although they are almost always accredited to the artist and publisher only.
Ukiyo-e were often used for book illustrations but really came into their own as single-sheet prints. They played a role much like modern-day pulp fiction and thanks to a rapidly increasing level of literacy, became extremely popular among the middle class. Another role was that of posters for the kabuki theater, which was also rapidly gaining in popularity. Ukiyo-e also played their part in the development of Western art in the late 19th century, influencing such important artists as Van Gogh, Monet, Degas and Klimt.
In the mid-18th century, techniques were developed to allow full-color printing and the ukiyo-e which we see reproduced today on post cards and calendars date from this period on. Utamaro and Hokusai are the big names from this period, and other prominent artists include Hiroshige and Sharaku.
Kitagawa Utamaro (1753~1806) is famous for his depictions of beautiful women from the tearooms (above), shops and pleasure quarters of Edo. He also designed some of the most beautifully illustrated books in the history of ukiyo-e.
Katsushika Hokusai (1760~1849) is best known for his nature scenes and his series 'Thirty-six Views of Mt. Fuji'. This series started a whole new style of landscape ukiyo-e. The famous illustration of a giant wave engulfing fishing boats, with Mt. Fuji merely a background detail (top right), is one of the most familiar Japanese works of art.
Ukiyo-e remain part of the Japanese cultural identity today and elements of the more famous works are often incorporated into modern art and design. Reproductions can be picked up for a very reasonable price in souvenir shops. They make excellent souveniers for anyone who wants to take home something quintessentially Japanese (and light!).
Beneath the Waves off Kanagawa (from the series '36 Views of Mt. Fuji', 1831) - Hokusai
Kambara (from the series '53 Stations of the Tokaido Road', 1833~4) - Hiroshige
For a good, and entertaining, read about what remained of the Edo entertainment districts in the first half of this century, you could do worse than check out Kazuo Ishiguro's novel 'Artist of the Floating World', short-listed for the Booker Prize in 1986. The writer grew up in the UK and writes in English.
The name of this art form literally means pictures of the floating world. The term 'floating world' refers to a generally hedonistic way of life, and was often used as a euphemism for the bars and houses of ill-repute which were so popular among artists and literary types in pre-war Japan. Ukiyo-e wood-block prints first appeared early in the Edo Period (1600~1868) and depicted stories set in this after-hours world. Flashy kabuki actors and stylish courtesans were the most popular subjects. Later artists started depicting scenes from nature and works such as Hokusai's views of Mt. Fuji (see below) are among the most famous today.
The prints were a collaboration between artist, publisher, wood-block carver and printer although they are almost always accredited to the artist and publisher only.
Ukiyo-e were often used for book illustrations but really came into their own as single-sheet prints. They played a role much like modern-day pulp fiction and thanks to a rapidly increasing level of literacy, became extremely popular among the middle class. Another role was that of posters for the kabuki theater, which was also rapidly gaining in popularity. Ukiyo-e also played their part in the development of Western art in the late 19th century, influencing such important artists as Van Gogh, Monet, Degas and Klimt.
In the mid-18th century, techniques were developed to allow full-color printing and the ukiyo-e which we see reproduced today on post cards and calendars date from this period on. Utamaro and Hokusai are the big names from this period, and other prominent artists include Hiroshige and Sharaku.
Kitagawa Utamaro (1753~1806) is famous for his depictions of beautiful women from the tearooms (above), shops and pleasure quarters of Edo. He also designed some of the most beautifully illustrated books in the history of ukiyo-e.
Katsushika Hokusai (1760~1849) is best known for his nature scenes and his series 'Thirty-six Views of Mt. Fuji'. This series started a whole new style of landscape ukiyo-e. The famous illustration of a giant wave engulfing fishing boats, with Mt. Fuji merely a background detail (top right), is one of the most familiar Japanese works of art.
Ukiyo-e remain part of the Japanese cultural identity today and elements of the more famous works are often incorporated into modern art and design. Reproductions can be picked up for a very reasonable price in souvenir shops. They make excellent souveniers for anyone who wants to take home something quintessentially Japanese (and light!).
Beneath the Waves off Kanagawa (from the series '36 Views of Mt. Fuji', 1831) - Hokusai
Kambara (from the series '53 Stations of the Tokaido Road', 1833~4) - Hiroshige
For a good, and entertaining, read about what remained of the Edo entertainment districts in the first half of this century, you could do worse than check out Kazuo Ishiguro's novel 'Artist of the Floating World', short-listed for the Booker Prize in 1986. The writer grew up in the UK and writes in English.
Sado
There are several schools of Sado, or Japanese tea ceremony, also known as Chanoyu. Tea, in this case O-cha (green tea), is as integral to culture in Japan as coffee is in the US (more so, in fact) or 'a cuppa' is in the UK. Also, its health benefits are widely touted and generally accepted worldwide. And study of the tea ceremony is still considered part of the 'proper' education of any aspiring young 'lady'. All these factors ensure that this ancient art form thrives even in modern-day Japan.
Sen no Rikyu
The Shokintei teahouse
The earliest rituals involving tea came to Japan as a part of Buddhist meditation in the 6th century. Later, in the Kamakura Period (1185-1333), a Japanese priest named Eisai introduced tea seeds which became the source of much of the tea grown in Japan today. A century later the priest Eizon and the monk Ikkyu further promoted the tea ceremony. Shuko, a pupil of Ikkyu, became tea master to the Shogun Ashikaga Yoshimasa at whose villa (now known as Ginkakuji or the 'Temple of the Siver Pavillion' in Kyoto) the first purpose made tea room in Japan was built.
The roots of today's major schools can be traced to tea master Sen No Rikyu (1522-1591). Over the course of later generations, the tea ceremony was refined and acquired a more Japanese rather than Chinese aesthetic. The sons of Rikyu's grandson Sotan founded their own schools: Ura Senke for commoners, Omote Senke for aristocrats and Mushanokoji Senke, which highly values the principle of wabi. (Wabi can be described as a moral and aesthetic principle which emphasises a quiet life free of worldly concerns). The Ura Senke school continues to thrive today and encourages cultural exchange abroad through the tea ceremony.
The chaji, or tea ceremony is usually held in a cha-shitsu (tea-room). In grander times, this would have consisted of a seperate, small building set in a picturesque and tranquil corner of a traditional garden. These structures can most often be seen today in parks or castle and temple gardens. The Shokintei teahouse at the Katsura Detached Palace in Kyoto is a good example.
Guests enter the tea-room through the nijiriguchi, a tiny door which forces them to crouch, thereby foregoing their worldly status. In a formal chaji many factors are considered to celebrate the uniqueness of the moment: the guests invited, the season, the calligraphy scroll hanging on the wall, the flowers on display, the utensils, the food served before the tea and so on. The chaji itself has several stages, each with a depth of meaning difficult for the outsider to grasp but ultimately based on a reverance for nature and the creation of a perfect moment in time.
The following is a message from Sen Soshitsu, Ura Senke Grand Tea Master XV:
"Chado, the Way Of Tea, is based upon the simple act of boiling water, making tea, offering it to others, and drinking of it ourselves. Served with a respectful heart and received with gratitude, a bowl of tea satisfies both physical and spiritual thirst.
The frenzied world and our myriad dilemmas leave our bodies and minds exhausted. It is then that we seek out a place where we can have a moment of peace and tranquillity. In the discipline of Chado such a place can be found. The four principles of harmony, respect, purity and tranquility, codified almost four hundred years ago, are timeless guides to the practice of Chado. Incorporating them into daily life helps one to find that unassailable place of tranquility that is within each of us.
As a representative of this unbroken Japanese tradition of four hundred years, I am pleased to see that many non-Japanese are welcoming the chance to pursue its study. This growing interest in Chado among peoples of all nations leads me to strive even harder to make it possible for more people to enter the Way of Tea."
A celebrant of the tea ceremony holds a chasen (bamboo brush) used to stir and mix the tea.
Other utensils used during the ceremony include: the cha-ire, a ceramic container used for the powdered tea; the kama (kettle) used for boiling water over a charcoal fire; hashi (chopsticks) made of cedar wood used for eating the simple food; the cha-wan (tea bowls) and many others.
Koicha (thick tea) is served first and later usucha (thin tea). During the course of the ceremony, a kaiseki light meal, sake and higashi (dry sweets) are also served.
On another note, one of the key indicators of Japan's progress (or lack thereof) in the field of gender relations is whether office ladies (OL's) are required by a given employer to make and do the rounds with the tea during the working day. It is the cause of probably the most often voiced grievance among the long list of sexist behavior engrained into Japanese corporate society.
Sen no Rikyu
The Shokintei teahouse
The earliest rituals involving tea came to Japan as a part of Buddhist meditation in the 6th century. Later, in the Kamakura Period (1185-1333), a Japanese priest named Eisai introduced tea seeds which became the source of much of the tea grown in Japan today. A century later the priest Eizon and the monk Ikkyu further promoted the tea ceremony. Shuko, a pupil of Ikkyu, became tea master to the Shogun Ashikaga Yoshimasa at whose villa (now known as Ginkakuji or the 'Temple of the Siver Pavillion' in Kyoto) the first purpose made tea room in Japan was built.
The roots of today's major schools can be traced to tea master Sen No Rikyu (1522-1591). Over the course of later generations, the tea ceremony was refined and acquired a more Japanese rather than Chinese aesthetic. The sons of Rikyu's grandson Sotan founded their own schools: Ura Senke for commoners, Omote Senke for aristocrats and Mushanokoji Senke, which highly values the principle of wabi. (Wabi can be described as a moral and aesthetic principle which emphasises a quiet life free of worldly concerns). The Ura Senke school continues to thrive today and encourages cultural exchange abroad through the tea ceremony.
The chaji, or tea ceremony is usually held in a cha-shitsu (tea-room). In grander times, this would have consisted of a seperate, small building set in a picturesque and tranquil corner of a traditional garden. These structures can most often be seen today in parks or castle and temple gardens. The Shokintei teahouse at the Katsura Detached Palace in Kyoto is a good example.
Guests enter the tea-room through the nijiriguchi, a tiny door which forces them to crouch, thereby foregoing their worldly status. In a formal chaji many factors are considered to celebrate the uniqueness of the moment: the guests invited, the season, the calligraphy scroll hanging on the wall, the flowers on display, the utensils, the food served before the tea and so on. The chaji itself has several stages, each with a depth of meaning difficult for the outsider to grasp but ultimately based on a reverance for nature and the creation of a perfect moment in time.
The following is a message from Sen Soshitsu, Ura Senke Grand Tea Master XV:
"Chado, the Way Of Tea, is based upon the simple act of boiling water, making tea, offering it to others, and drinking of it ourselves. Served with a respectful heart and received with gratitude, a bowl of tea satisfies both physical and spiritual thirst.
The frenzied world and our myriad dilemmas leave our bodies and minds exhausted. It is then that we seek out a place where we can have a moment of peace and tranquillity. In the discipline of Chado such a place can be found. The four principles of harmony, respect, purity and tranquility, codified almost four hundred years ago, are timeless guides to the practice of Chado. Incorporating them into daily life helps one to find that unassailable place of tranquility that is within each of us.
As a representative of this unbroken Japanese tradition of four hundred years, I am pleased to see that many non-Japanese are welcoming the chance to pursue its study. This growing interest in Chado among peoples of all nations leads me to strive even harder to make it possible for more people to enter the Way of Tea."
A celebrant of the tea ceremony holds a chasen (bamboo brush) used to stir and mix the tea.
Other utensils used during the ceremony include: the cha-ire, a ceramic container used for the powdered tea; the kama (kettle) used for boiling water over a charcoal fire; hashi (chopsticks) made of cedar wood used for eating the simple food; the cha-wan (tea bowls) and many others.
Koicha (thick tea) is served first and later usucha (thin tea). During the course of the ceremony, a kaiseki light meal, sake and higashi (dry sweets) are also served.
On another note, one of the key indicators of Japan's progress (or lack thereof) in the field of gender relations is whether office ladies (OL's) are required by a given employer to make and do the rounds with the tea during the working day. It is the cause of probably the most often voiced grievance among the long list of sexist behavior engrained into Japanese corporate society.
Geisha
I recently had the pleasure of meeting a woman who was once the No.1 geisha in Japan. She's a wonderful lady, funny, warm and kind. She was once a favorite of my wife's grandfather who, with his many business and social connections, helped her find sponsors and make her name. He died many years back and more recently his wife - my wife's grandmother - also passed away. This lady unassumingly took control of all the everyday things at home - cooking, cleaning, child-minding - so that the family could grieve and deal with the multitude of funeral related matters. In the evening she regaled us with geisha tales and parlor tricks. Some of the jokes and songs were surprisingly risque, but related with such grace and skill that no one could really be offended. She is well into middle age but I could see how, in her time, she must have drawn men to her like moths to a flame.
Arthur Golden's 1998 novel Memoirs of a Geisha revived interest in an aspect of Japan that is so intrinsic to the Western stereotype and yet so far removed from the reality of daily life here. Geisha do still exist and ply their trade, of course. But the role they play in modern society is minor and, except for the attention they get from camera-wielding tourists, largely unseen. In fact, most of the women captured on film are either maiko (apprentice geisha) or tourists themselves, done up for a few hours of faux sophistication and attention seeking.
But like their male counterpart the samurai, the geisha and her world continue to fascinate people around the world as part of their image of a mysterious and timeless Japan. Prostitution is of course referred to as the "oldest profession," and the history of the geisha stretches back several centuries. But while many people assume that geisha is just a Japanese word for a prostitute, the somewhat more romantic word 'courtesan' is probably closer in nuance, though even that is misleading when you consider their history. The word geisha itself literally means 'person of the arts' - indeed the earliest geisha were men - and it is as performers of dance, music and poetry that they actually spend most of their working time.
The two most famous hanamichi (geisha quarters) can be found in the capital cities of today and yesteryear, Tokyo and Kyoto. Medieval Edo, as Tokyo was formerly known, had the Yoshiwara pleasure quarters, where kabuki actors and artists would mingle with the evolving merchant class. The Edo period (1600-1868) was a time when Japan was largely closed to the outside world and also an era of great cultural development. Actors, sumo wrestlers and geisha were often the subjects of colorful ukiyo-e, woodblock prints whose name literally means 'pictures of the floating world,' a wonderful euphemism for the world of carnal desires.
In the case of Kyoto, entertainment was to be found in the Shimabara district. Even today, geiko, as they are referred to in Kyoto, and maiko entertain customers in traditional teahouses.
History of geisha
Geisha have their roots in female entertainers such as the Saburuko of the 7th century and the Shirabyoshi, who emerged around the early 13th century. They would perform for the nobility and some even became concubines to the emperor. It was in the late 16th century that the first walled-in pleasure quarters were built in Japan. Like so many aspects of Japanese culture, they were modelled after those of Ming Dynasty China. After they were relocated in the mid-1600s, they became known as Shimabara (after a fortress in Kyushu).
Meanwhile a marshy patch of land (Yoshi-wara) in Edo had been designated as the site for a brothel district under the auspices of the Tokugawa shogunate. Brothels and the like were not allowed to operate outside the district and strict rules were applied. Included among these were that no customers were allowed to stay in a brothel more than 24 hours; courtesans were to wear simple dyed kimonos; and any suspicious or unknown visitors were to be reported to the Office of the City Governor.
With Japan enjoying a long-awaited period of peace following centuries of civil war, many samurai found that society no longer had such need of their services. It's thought that many daughters of these formerly noble families became courtesans, with the result that quarters such as Yoshiwara and Shimabara were places of refinement and culture. Peace also brought an increase in prosperity and the rise of the merchant class, or chonin. Add that to the presence of artists and an atmosphere free of the strictures of the outside world, and it truly was something of an adult amusement park, with culture thrown in for good measure.
Within the hanamichi there were many different classes of courtesans, and over the decades the hierarchy and the standards expected of them changed many times, not always for the better. The situation deteriorated in the mid-18th century to the extent that a new form of entertainer emerged in Kyoto and Osaka. The earliest geiko were men, while the first females, who appeared shortly after, were odoriko (dancers) or played the shamisen. Female geisha soon became popular enough to be able to steal clients from the courtesans, and in the case of Yoshiwara it was decided to start a kenban, or registration system, to keep them under control and force them to pay taxes. It strictly controlled their dress, behaviour and movements and was considered so successful that it quickly became the norm at hanamichi across Japan.
These strict rules in fact allowed the geisha to flourish as artists and entertainers. Though more simply dressed than the courtesans, they became regarded as fashion leaders. But many aspects of the lifestyle itself were less glamorous. Young girls were sold into the geisha life by their families until the mid-20th century and were often subject to the ritual of 'mizu-age,' whereby their virginity was sold to the highest bidder. Such practices were eradicated after World War II and the geisha profession went into a steady decline. Today, if geisha are hired to entertain at a private party outside the upper eschelons of society, they are most likely to be seasoned veterans, more akin to your favorite aunt or even grandmother than the girl next door.
Arthur Golden's 1998 novel Memoirs of a Geisha revived interest in an aspect of Japan that is so intrinsic to the Western stereotype and yet so far removed from the reality of daily life here. Geisha do still exist and ply their trade, of course. But the role they play in modern society is minor and, except for the attention they get from camera-wielding tourists, largely unseen. In fact, most of the women captured on film are either maiko (apprentice geisha) or tourists themselves, done up for a few hours of faux sophistication and attention seeking.
But like their male counterpart the samurai, the geisha and her world continue to fascinate people around the world as part of their image of a mysterious and timeless Japan. Prostitution is of course referred to as the "oldest profession," and the history of the geisha stretches back several centuries. But while many people assume that geisha is just a Japanese word for a prostitute, the somewhat more romantic word 'courtesan' is probably closer in nuance, though even that is misleading when you consider their history. The word geisha itself literally means 'person of the arts' - indeed the earliest geisha were men - and it is as performers of dance, music and poetry that they actually spend most of their working time.
The two most famous hanamichi (geisha quarters) can be found in the capital cities of today and yesteryear, Tokyo and Kyoto. Medieval Edo, as Tokyo was formerly known, had the Yoshiwara pleasure quarters, where kabuki actors and artists would mingle with the evolving merchant class. The Edo period (1600-1868) was a time when Japan was largely closed to the outside world and also an era of great cultural development. Actors, sumo wrestlers and geisha were often the subjects of colorful ukiyo-e, woodblock prints whose name literally means 'pictures of the floating world,' a wonderful euphemism for the world of carnal desires.
In the case of Kyoto, entertainment was to be found in the Shimabara district. Even today, geiko, as they are referred to in Kyoto, and maiko entertain customers in traditional teahouses.
History of geisha
Geisha have their roots in female entertainers such as the Saburuko of the 7th century and the Shirabyoshi, who emerged around the early 13th century. They would perform for the nobility and some even became concubines to the emperor. It was in the late 16th century that the first walled-in pleasure quarters were built in Japan. Like so many aspects of Japanese culture, they were modelled after those of Ming Dynasty China. After they were relocated in the mid-1600s, they became known as Shimabara (after a fortress in Kyushu).
Meanwhile a marshy patch of land (Yoshi-wara) in Edo had been designated as the site for a brothel district under the auspices of the Tokugawa shogunate. Brothels and the like were not allowed to operate outside the district and strict rules were applied. Included among these were that no customers were allowed to stay in a brothel more than 24 hours; courtesans were to wear simple dyed kimonos; and any suspicious or unknown visitors were to be reported to the Office of the City Governor.
With Japan enjoying a long-awaited period of peace following centuries of civil war, many samurai found that society no longer had such need of their services. It's thought that many daughters of these formerly noble families became courtesans, with the result that quarters such as Yoshiwara and Shimabara were places of refinement and culture. Peace also brought an increase in prosperity and the rise of the merchant class, or chonin. Add that to the presence of artists and an atmosphere free of the strictures of the outside world, and it truly was something of an adult amusement park, with culture thrown in for good measure.
Within the hanamichi there were many different classes of courtesans, and over the decades the hierarchy and the standards expected of them changed many times, not always for the better. The situation deteriorated in the mid-18th century to the extent that a new form of entertainer emerged in Kyoto and Osaka. The earliest geiko were men, while the first females, who appeared shortly after, were odoriko (dancers) or played the shamisen. Female geisha soon became popular enough to be able to steal clients from the courtesans, and in the case of Yoshiwara it was decided to start a kenban, or registration system, to keep them under control and force them to pay taxes. It strictly controlled their dress, behaviour and movements and was considered so successful that it quickly became the norm at hanamichi across Japan.
These strict rules in fact allowed the geisha to flourish as artists and entertainers. Though more simply dressed than the courtesans, they became regarded as fashion leaders. But many aspects of the lifestyle itself were less glamorous. Young girls were sold into the geisha life by their families until the mid-20th century and were often subject to the ritual of 'mizu-age,' whereby their virginity was sold to the highest bidder. Such practices were eradicated after World War II and the geisha profession went into a steady decline. Today, if geisha are hired to entertain at a private party outside the upper eschelons of society, they are most likely to be seasoned veterans, more akin to your favorite aunt or even grandmother than the girl next door.
Magome and Tsumago: Following the footsteps
Magome and Tsumago: Following the footsteps
All roads lead to Tokyo. Anyone who has traveled in Japan will have heard of the Tokaido, even if they didn’t know the significance of the word. The eastern sea road ran between the emperor’s court in Kyoto and the Shogun’s capital in Edo (Tokyo). Now it’s the name given to the shinkansen line that follows the same route.
Less well known is the Nakasendo, which began and ended at the same two points of power in feudal Japan, but followed a different path, winding through the mountainous interior. Like the Tokaido, most of it has either been modernized or obliterated. Some sections however are well preserved. The stretch between Magome-juku and Tsumago-juku, crossing the border of Gifu and Nagano, is probably the most famous.
In the latter quarter of the last century, residents of the two former post towns (stopping places on the road) got together to fight both progress and apathy, and restored the area to its former appearance. They did a splendid job. Although modernity creeps in, and the architectural free-for-all that blights all Japanese towns is never more than a street or two away, enclaves of Edo era beauty have been created, catering now for the tourist trade rather than passing travelers with business in the big cities.
Although the crowds and the numerous car parks and coach tours testify otherwise, traditional houses, shops and streets aren’t the only draw. For those, like myself, who enjoy their nature wild yet peaceful, the 8-km walk between the two towns holds more attraction, and more pleasing photo opportunities.
The train from Nagoya took us to Nakatsugawa where we caught a tourist-friendly bus to Magome. From the west, this is the easiest way if you don’t have access to a car or intend walking. The stretch of Nakasendo here reaches an elevation of 800 meters. Starting at Magome makes the walk a little easier, as Magome sits higher than Tsumago. From the bus stop, follow the human chain back and left, up through the perfectly preserved streets.
The route is well signposted in English, Japanese and Korean, and walking on the stone surface is a pleasure made all the more obvious by the few sections of tarmac that jarred my knees and destroyed my samurai daydreams. This is the Japan of the photos, of the prints, of Kurosawa and Basho. Tall bamboo forests, terraced rice fields, carp ponds and wooden waterwheels vie for space on your memory card. Clouds drift through the patchwork green mountains towering on all sides. There was a light drizzle on the day we were there, and so we had the world to ourselves.
A little over halfway, two waterfalls of the clearest water cascade. This spot is a touch busier, as those who drive from one town to the next stop off here to check the falls off their to do lists. There are benches and the thundering water has opened the area out, making it a decent place to take a break.
Of the two towns, Magome is more picture-esque, benefiting from its elevated position and lack of space in which to sprawl. There is more in Tsumago, making it a better destination should you be tiring and in need of refreshment. Lining this lively stretch of the road are shops, restaurants, museums, a post office and a tourist information office. There are also much more people, a factor that contributed heavily to our decision to continue through the town and out the other side. When you reach Tsumago is it possible to take a bus or taxi back to Magome, or to either Nagiso or Nakatsugawa stations.
It’s even possible to turn around and walk back, should you have the energy. We were still in the mood for movement and not for other people, so the 3.5-km walk to Nagiso station was agreed upon without a word. The route winds on in much the same rustic vein as before but, since few tourists come this way, the signage drops off, though not enough to induce confusion.
From Nagiso, the local train returns you to Nakatsugawa from where, for better or for worse, you are once more in contact with 21st century Japan.
All roads lead to Tokyo. Anyone who has traveled in Japan will have heard of the Tokaido, even if they didn’t know the significance of the word. The eastern sea road ran between the emperor’s court in Kyoto and the Shogun’s capital in Edo (Tokyo). Now it’s the name given to the shinkansen line that follows the same route.
Less well known is the Nakasendo, which began and ended at the same two points of power in feudal Japan, but followed a different path, winding through the mountainous interior. Like the Tokaido, most of it has either been modernized or obliterated. Some sections however are well preserved. The stretch between Magome-juku and Tsumago-juku, crossing the border of Gifu and Nagano, is probably the most famous.
In the latter quarter of the last century, residents of the two former post towns (stopping places on the road) got together to fight both progress and apathy, and restored the area to its former appearance. They did a splendid job. Although modernity creeps in, and the architectural free-for-all that blights all Japanese towns is never more than a street or two away, enclaves of Edo era beauty have been created, catering now for the tourist trade rather than passing travelers with business in the big cities.
Although the crowds and the numerous car parks and coach tours testify otherwise, traditional houses, shops and streets aren’t the only draw. For those, like myself, who enjoy their nature wild yet peaceful, the 8-km walk between the two towns holds more attraction, and more pleasing photo opportunities.
The train from Nagoya took us to Nakatsugawa where we caught a tourist-friendly bus to Magome. From the west, this is the easiest way if you don’t have access to a car or intend walking. The stretch of Nakasendo here reaches an elevation of 800 meters. Starting at Magome makes the walk a little easier, as Magome sits higher than Tsumago. From the bus stop, follow the human chain back and left, up through the perfectly preserved streets.
The route is well signposted in English, Japanese and Korean, and walking on the stone surface is a pleasure made all the more obvious by the few sections of tarmac that jarred my knees and destroyed my samurai daydreams. This is the Japan of the photos, of the prints, of Kurosawa and Basho. Tall bamboo forests, terraced rice fields, carp ponds and wooden waterwheels vie for space on your memory card. Clouds drift through the patchwork green mountains towering on all sides. There was a light drizzle on the day we were there, and so we had the world to ourselves.
A little over halfway, two waterfalls of the clearest water cascade. This spot is a touch busier, as those who drive from one town to the next stop off here to check the falls off their to do lists. There are benches and the thundering water has opened the area out, making it a decent place to take a break.
Of the two towns, Magome is more picture-esque, benefiting from its elevated position and lack of space in which to sprawl. There is more in Tsumago, making it a better destination should you be tiring and in need of refreshment. Lining this lively stretch of the road are shops, restaurants, museums, a post office and a tourist information office. There are also much more people, a factor that contributed heavily to our decision to continue through the town and out the other side. When you reach Tsumago is it possible to take a bus or taxi back to Magome, or to either Nagiso or Nakatsugawa stations.
It’s even possible to turn around and walk back, should you have the energy. We were still in the mood for movement and not for other people, so the 3.5-km walk to Nagiso station was agreed upon without a word. The route winds on in much the same rustic vein as before but, since few tourists come this way, the signage drops off, though not enough to induce confusion.
From Nagiso, the local train returns you to Nakatsugawa from where, for better or for worse, you are once more in contact with 21st century Japan.
Naha: A place in the sun
Naha: A place in the sun
NAHA —
When arriving in Naha, Okinawa, you will immediately feel there is something different about the place and about the people from mainland Japan. In fact, Okinawa today is a mix of Chinese, Japanese, and a sprinkle of American culture all thrown in together.
However, Okinawa was once known as the Kingdome of Ryuku, and was its own separate country, with kings and princesses sitting on their thrones at Shuri-jo castle (now a World Heritage site), and surrounded by statues of shiisa lions to ward off evil spirits and bring in good luck. The Ryuku kings ruled from Shuri-jo from around the 15th century to 1879.
However, Ryuku or Okinawa, as we now know it, not only feels separated from mainland Japan because of history, but also because of economy. Okinawa remains Japan’s poorest region, despite the Japanese government donating millions of yen to turn Okinawa into a vacation paradise.
However, things aren’t too bad for the Okinawan people. They live next to the beach, eat lots of goya, and live long lives. In fact, Okinawan people are said to have the longest life span in the world. It has to be the goya.
This bitter cucumber-like gourd can be found in everything, from goya beer, to goya tea, to goya ice cream. Even goya burgers. The most famous use of goya however, is its appearance in goya champuru (or champo for short), a popular food eaten by Okinawans. Goya champuru is made from tofu, egg, pork (another Okinawan favorite food), and of course, goya. Some other popular foods in Okinawa that should not be missed are umi-budo (seaweed that look similar to tiny grapes that burst in your mouth like fish eggs), Okinawa soba or Soki soba (the stock of which is made from boiling pork ribs until the meat falls off the bones and the noodles of which are made from pure, wheat flour rather than buckwheat flour, making the noodles lighter in color and thicker), jimamedofu (tofu made from peanuts), and awamori tofu (tofu made from the extremely strong awamori liquor-think of it as a food that makes you really drunk).
To wash all of this down, you will need sanpin-cha (ice cold jasmine tea), Orion beer (the local Okinawan beer that is not popular anywhere but Okinawa), awamori shochu (very strong Japanese vodka made from black malted rice), or if you’re feeling really adventurous, you can try habu-shochu (awamori shochu with a big, dead habu pit viper snake coiled at the bottom of the bottle, which supposedly gives you a lot of “power”).
For dessert you can try Blue Seal Ice Cream (a popular American ice cream), sand cookies made from Okinawa’s unique bright purple yams, a variety of exotic fruits, like dragon fruit or pineapple, or black sugar shaved ice.
You can find any of this and more at one of the many restaurants located on Naha’s main strip, Kokusai-dori. If possible, try to go to one that also offers a live show featuring Ryuku court dance shows or just live music. Songs like Shima-Uta and Nada So So have even reached mainland Japan and the island beats will have you ordering another shot of awamori shochu.
Many people use Naha just as a jump off point for other various destinations in the Okinawan islands such as Miyakojima or Ishigaki island which are further south but don’t overlook Naha as a destination in itself. There are plenty of nice beaches and things to do such as…
1. Dai-Ichi Kosetsu Ichiba. Come here to see all the various pork products being sold, including dried pigs’ faces, internal organs, and so on. There are also tons of snake supplements for sale but it will cost you an arm and a leg. If you don’t like the thought of butchered pork and snake, you can also find a variety of brightly colored exotic fruits and multi-colored fish on sale.
2. Nago Pineapple Park. Ride pineapple pods through fields of pineapple (which take several years to grow into a full one) or just walk (next door is also a tropical bird park). Be sure to get enough walking in because you will be given the opportunity to consume as much pineapple as possible after finishing the tour. You can also sample pineapple wine, pineapple vinegar (good for health and cleansing the blood), pineapple cookies, cakes, and so on.
3. Take a ferry to the Kerama Islands. They are only about an hour away. Here you can swim in crystal clear ocean waters and go snorkeling or scuba-diving, where you might catch a glimpse of Nemo, the colorful clownfish. If it’s the right time of year, you can also see whales.
4. See a festival. In early May, you can watch colorful dragon boats race through the harbor as a prayer for safety and prosperity of local fisherman. Or wait until August 10th, when Naha has its annual city festival with a game of Giant Tug of War, using the biggest handmade rope in the world (as documented by Guiness Book of World Records).
So even if you’re not a beach person and hate pork, it doesn’t matter. There is truly something for everyone in Naha. So grab your cell phone and get that ticket booked.
NAHA —
When arriving in Naha, Okinawa, you will immediately feel there is something different about the place and about the people from mainland Japan. In fact, Okinawa today is a mix of Chinese, Japanese, and a sprinkle of American culture all thrown in together.
However, Okinawa was once known as the Kingdome of Ryuku, and was its own separate country, with kings and princesses sitting on their thrones at Shuri-jo castle (now a World Heritage site), and surrounded by statues of shiisa lions to ward off evil spirits and bring in good luck. The Ryuku kings ruled from Shuri-jo from around the 15th century to 1879.
However, Ryuku or Okinawa, as we now know it, not only feels separated from mainland Japan because of history, but also because of economy. Okinawa remains Japan’s poorest region, despite the Japanese government donating millions of yen to turn Okinawa into a vacation paradise.
However, things aren’t too bad for the Okinawan people. They live next to the beach, eat lots of goya, and live long lives. In fact, Okinawan people are said to have the longest life span in the world. It has to be the goya.
This bitter cucumber-like gourd can be found in everything, from goya beer, to goya tea, to goya ice cream. Even goya burgers. The most famous use of goya however, is its appearance in goya champuru (or champo for short), a popular food eaten by Okinawans. Goya champuru is made from tofu, egg, pork (another Okinawan favorite food), and of course, goya. Some other popular foods in Okinawa that should not be missed are umi-budo (seaweed that look similar to tiny grapes that burst in your mouth like fish eggs), Okinawa soba or Soki soba (the stock of which is made from boiling pork ribs until the meat falls off the bones and the noodles of which are made from pure, wheat flour rather than buckwheat flour, making the noodles lighter in color and thicker), jimamedofu (tofu made from peanuts), and awamori tofu (tofu made from the extremely strong awamori liquor-think of it as a food that makes you really drunk).
To wash all of this down, you will need sanpin-cha (ice cold jasmine tea), Orion beer (the local Okinawan beer that is not popular anywhere but Okinawa), awamori shochu (very strong Japanese vodka made from black malted rice), or if you’re feeling really adventurous, you can try habu-shochu (awamori shochu with a big, dead habu pit viper snake coiled at the bottom of the bottle, which supposedly gives you a lot of “power”).
For dessert you can try Blue Seal Ice Cream (a popular American ice cream), sand cookies made from Okinawa’s unique bright purple yams, a variety of exotic fruits, like dragon fruit or pineapple, or black sugar shaved ice.
You can find any of this and more at one of the many restaurants located on Naha’s main strip, Kokusai-dori. If possible, try to go to one that also offers a live show featuring Ryuku court dance shows or just live music. Songs like Shima-Uta and Nada So So have even reached mainland Japan and the island beats will have you ordering another shot of awamori shochu.
Many people use Naha just as a jump off point for other various destinations in the Okinawan islands such as Miyakojima or Ishigaki island which are further south but don’t overlook Naha as a destination in itself. There are plenty of nice beaches and things to do such as…
1. Dai-Ichi Kosetsu Ichiba. Come here to see all the various pork products being sold, including dried pigs’ faces, internal organs, and so on. There are also tons of snake supplements for sale but it will cost you an arm and a leg. If you don’t like the thought of butchered pork and snake, you can also find a variety of brightly colored exotic fruits and multi-colored fish on sale.
2. Nago Pineapple Park. Ride pineapple pods through fields of pineapple (which take several years to grow into a full one) or just walk (next door is also a tropical bird park). Be sure to get enough walking in because you will be given the opportunity to consume as much pineapple as possible after finishing the tour. You can also sample pineapple wine, pineapple vinegar (good for health and cleansing the blood), pineapple cookies, cakes, and so on.
3. Take a ferry to the Kerama Islands. They are only about an hour away. Here you can swim in crystal clear ocean waters and go snorkeling or scuba-diving, where you might catch a glimpse of Nemo, the colorful clownfish. If it’s the right time of year, you can also see whales.
4. See a festival. In early May, you can watch colorful dragon boats race through the harbor as a prayer for safety and prosperity of local fisherman. Or wait until August 10th, when Naha has its annual city festival with a game of Giant Tug of War, using the biggest handmade rope in the world (as documented by Guiness Book of World Records).
So even if you’re not a beach person and hate pork, it doesn’t matter. There is truly something for everyone in Naha. So grab your cell phone and get that ticket booked.
Courtesy of Mitaka Forest Ghibli Museum
Hayao Miyazaki is regarded as Japan’s greatest living animation director, and his Studio Ghibli holds most of the country’s box office records. Seen the movies? Then step into his world at the charming Ghibli Museum in Mitaka City, just outside of downtown Tokyo.
The Mitaka Forest Ghibli Museum opened in 2001 in Inokashira Park, one of the metropolitan area’s best-loved recreation spots. While the museum functions as both a showcase of fine art and a commercial theme park, it doesn’t follow the basic rules one might expect. In fact, it is designed with children in mind, and boasts a playful, sprawling and mazelike structure. The exterior features the beautiful European architecture characteristic of Miyazaki’s works, but once inside, all bets are off. There is no set path or viewing order. A winding spiral staircase dominates the central hall, but does not lead to all levels; some doors are child-sized; getting from one place to another often requires imagination and exploration.
In short, it is like the anti-Disneyland—a place to get lost and enjoy freely. A romantic notion, but problems with crowd control and pedestrian flow would seem the natural outcome. Fear not—the number of people allowed into the 4,000-square-meter complex at any one time is limited to around 600. Spots are on a reservation basis, with entry times set at 10 a.m., noon, 2 p.m. and 4 p.m. Note that while the staff won’t make you leave after you enter, if you are 30 minutes late for your entry time, you won’t get in. Tickets can be obtained at travel agents overseas or at Lawson’s ticket machines in Japan.
The basement floor offers an exhibition of the history and science of animation. One highlight is an ingenious 3D zoetrope that uses a table of Ghibli character models like Totoro, which when spun and put to synchronized strobe lighting appear to be moving. It is a truly magical experience, especially for kids, and demonstrates well the concept behind frames. After this, it’s a real treat to check out the extremely detailed animation studio populated by statuary pigs (classic Miyazaki—there’s even one that represents him) and filled with sketches, storyboards and reference materials. The process of making animation is illuminated in adjacent halls.
At the higher levels can be found a play area for kids (12 and under) dominated by a stuffed “Catbus,” and a staircase to a rooftop garden dominated by a giant copper robot soldier from “Laputa: Castle in the Sky.” This is a good place to take pictures, as photography is not allowed inside. The Straw Hat Cafe offers organic food, though the price and selection leave something to be desired. There is also a museum bookstore (mostly juvenile literature chosen by Miyazaki, and some by him or involving his characters) and a gift shop.
The museum’s rotating exhibits always include a show about animation (currently “Gake no Ue No Ponyo”), and the Saturn Theatre screens short films that can only be seen here. The movies, which rotate by month, have such titles as “Koro’s Big Day Out,” “Mom Mon the Water Spider” and “The Whale Hunt.” They are typically very high quality and sometimes experimental. Guests to the museum get one ticket to the theater per visit.
Adults: 1,000 yen; children under 12: 400 yen. 1-1-83 Shimorenjaku, Mitaka City (inside Inokashira Park). Entry by reservation only. Closed Tue. Nearest station: Mitaka (JR Chuo or Sobu line), then bus or 15 minutes’ walk.
The Mitaka Forest Ghibli Museum opened in 2001 in Inokashira Park, one of the metropolitan area’s best-loved recreation spots. While the museum functions as both a showcase of fine art and a commercial theme park, it doesn’t follow the basic rules one might expect. In fact, it is designed with children in mind, and boasts a playful, sprawling and mazelike structure. The exterior features the beautiful European architecture characteristic of Miyazaki’s works, but once inside, all bets are off. There is no set path or viewing order. A winding spiral staircase dominates the central hall, but does not lead to all levels; some doors are child-sized; getting from one place to another often requires imagination and exploration.
In short, it is like the anti-Disneyland—a place to get lost and enjoy freely. A romantic notion, but problems with crowd control and pedestrian flow would seem the natural outcome. Fear not—the number of people allowed into the 4,000-square-meter complex at any one time is limited to around 600. Spots are on a reservation basis, with entry times set at 10 a.m., noon, 2 p.m. and 4 p.m. Note that while the staff won’t make you leave after you enter, if you are 30 minutes late for your entry time, you won’t get in. Tickets can be obtained at travel agents overseas or at Lawson’s ticket machines in Japan.
The basement floor offers an exhibition of the history and science of animation. One highlight is an ingenious 3D zoetrope that uses a table of Ghibli character models like Totoro, which when spun and put to synchronized strobe lighting appear to be moving. It is a truly magical experience, especially for kids, and demonstrates well the concept behind frames. After this, it’s a real treat to check out the extremely detailed animation studio populated by statuary pigs (classic Miyazaki—there’s even one that represents him) and filled with sketches, storyboards and reference materials. The process of making animation is illuminated in adjacent halls.
At the higher levels can be found a play area for kids (12 and under) dominated by a stuffed “Catbus,” and a staircase to a rooftop garden dominated by a giant copper robot soldier from “Laputa: Castle in the Sky.” This is a good place to take pictures, as photography is not allowed inside. The Straw Hat Cafe offers organic food, though the price and selection leave something to be desired. There is also a museum bookstore (mostly juvenile literature chosen by Miyazaki, and some by him or involving his characters) and a gift shop.
The museum’s rotating exhibits always include a show about animation (currently “Gake no Ue No Ponyo”), and the Saturn Theatre screens short films that can only be seen here. The movies, which rotate by month, have such titles as “Koro’s Big Day Out,” “Mom Mon the Water Spider” and “The Whale Hunt.” They are typically very high quality and sometimes experimental. Guests to the museum get one ticket to the theater per visit.
Adults: 1,000 yen; children under 12: 400 yen. 1-1-83 Shimorenjaku, Mitaka City (inside Inokashira Park). Entry by reservation only. Closed Tue. Nearest station: Mitaka (JR Chuo or Sobu line), then bus or 15 minutes’ walk.
Michael Jackson dies of reported cardiac arrest at 50
Michael Jackson dies of reported cardiac arrest at 50
Friday 26th June, 09:51 AM JST
LOS ANGELES —
Michael Jackson, the sensationally gifted child star who rose to become the “King of Pop” and the biggest celebrity in the world only to fall from his throne in a freakish series of scandals, died Thursday. He was 50.
Jackson died at UCLA Medical Center after being stricken at his rented home in Holmby Hills. Paramedics tried to resuscitate him at his home for nearly three-quarters of an hour, then rushed him to the hospital, where doctors continued to work on him.
“It is believed he suffered cardiac arrest in his home. However, the cause of his death is unknown until results of the autopsy are known,” his brother Jermaine said. Police said they were investigating, standard procedure in high-profile cases.
Jackson’s death brought a tragic end to a long, bizarre, sometimes farcical decline from his peak in the 1980s, when he was popular music’s premier all-around performer, a uniter of black and white music who shattered the race barrier on MTV, dominated the charts and dazzled even more on stage.
His 1982 album “Thriller“—which included the blockbuster hits “Beat It,” “Billie Jean” and “Thriller“—is the best-selling album of all time, with an estimated 50 million copies sold worldwide.
At the time of his death, Jackson was rehearsing hard for what was to be his greatest comeback: He was scheduled for an unprecedented 50 shows at a London arena, with the first set for July 13.
As word of his death spread, MTV switched its programming to play videos from Jackson’s heyday. Radio stations began playing marathons of his hits. Hundreds of people gathered outside the hospital. In New York’s Times Square, a low groan went up in the crowd when a screen flashed that Jackson had died, and people began relaying the news to friends by cell phone.
“No joke. King of Pop is no more. Wow,” Michael Harris, 36, of New York City, read from a text message a friend had sent him. “It’s like when Kennedy was assassinated. I will always remember being in Times Square when Michael Jackson died.”
The public first knew him as a boy in the late 1960s, when he was the precocious, spinning lead singer of the Jackson 5, the singing group he formed with his four older brothers out of Gary, Indiana. Among their No. 1 hits were “I Want You Back,” “ABC” and “I’ll Be There.”
He was perhaps the most exciting performer of his generation, known for his backward-gliding moonwalk, his feverish, crotch-grabbing dance moves and his high-pitched singing, punctuated with squeals and titters. His single sequined glove, tight, military-style jacket and aviator sunglasses were trademarks, as was his ever-changing, surgically altered appearance.
“For Michael to be taken away from us so suddenly at such a young age, I just don’t have the words,” said Quincy Jones, who produced “Thriller.” “He was the consummate entertainer and his contributions and legacy will be felt upon the world forever. I’ve lost my little brother today, and part of my soul has gone with him.”
Jackson ranked alongside Elvis Presley and the Beatles as the biggest pop sensations of all time. He united two of music’s biggest names when he was briefly married to Presley’s daughter, Lisa Marie, and Jackson’s death immediately evoked comparisons to that of Presley himself, who died at age 42 in 1977.
As years went by, Jackson became an increasingly freakish figure _ a middle-aged man-child weirdly out of touch with grown-up life. His skin became lighter, his nose narrower, and he spoke in a breathy, girlish voice. He often wore a germ mask while traveling, kept a pet chimpanzee named Bubbles as one of his closest companions, and surrounded himself with children at his Neverland ranch, a storybook playland filled with toys, rides and animals. The tabloids dubbed him “Wacko Jacko.”
“It seemed to me that his internal essence was at war with the norms of the world. It’s as if he was trying to defy gravity,” said Michael Levine, a Hollywood publicist who represented Jackson in the early 1990s. He called Jackson a “disciple of P.T. Barnum” and said the star appeared fragile at the time but was “much more cunning and shrewd about the industry than anyone knew.”
Jackson caused a furor in 2002 when he playfully dangled his infant son, Prince Michael II, over a hotel balcony in Berlin while a throng of fans watched from below.
In 2005, he was cleared of charges he molested a 13-year-old cancer survivor at Neverland in 2003. He had been accused of plying the boy with alcohol and groping him, and of engaging in strange and inappropriate behavior with other children.
The case followed years of rumors about Jackson and young boys. In a TV documentary, he acknowledged sharing his bed with children, a practice he described as sweet and not at all sexual.
Despite the acquittal, the lurid allegations that came out in court took a fearsome toll on his career and image, and he fell into serious financial trouble.
Jackson was 4 years old when he began singing with his brothers—Marlon, Jermaine, Jackie and Tito—in the Jackson 5. After his early success with bubblegum soul, he struck out on his own, generating innovative, explosive, unstoppable music.
The album “Thriller” alone mixed the dark, serpentine bass and drums and synthesizer approach of “Billie Jean,” the grinding Eddie Van Halen solo on “Beat It,” and the hiccups and falsettos on “Wanna Be Startin’ Somethin’.”
The peak may have come in 1983, when Motown celebrated its 25th anniversary with an all-star televised concert and Jackson moonwalked off with the show, joining his brothers for a medley of old hits and then leaving them behind with a pointing, crouching, high-kicking, splay-footed, crotch-grabbing run through “Billie Jean.”
The audience stood and roared. Jackson raised his fist.
By then he had cemented his place in pop culture. He got the plum Scarecrow role in the 1978 movie musical “The Wiz,” a pop-R&B version of “The Wizard of Oz,” that starred Diana Ross as Dorothy.
During production of a 1984 Pepsi commercial, Jackson’s scalp sustains burns when an explosion sets his hair on fire.
He had strong follow-up albums with 1987’s “Bad” and 1991’s “Dangerous,” but his career began to collapse in 1993 after he was accused of molesting a boy who often stayed at his home. The singer denied any wrongdoing, reached a settlement with the boy’s family, reported to be $20 million, and criminal charges were never filed.
Jackson’s expressed anger over the allegations on the 1995 album “HIStory,” which sold more than 2.4 million copies, but by then, the popularity of Jackson’s music was clearly waning, even as public fascination with his increasingly erratic behavior was growing.
Cardiac arrest is an abnormal heart rhythm that stops the heart from pumping blood to the body. It can occur after a heart attack or be caused by other heart problems.
Billboard magazine editorial director Bill Werde said Jackson’s star power was unmatched. “The world just lost the biggest pop star in history, no matter how you cut it,” Werde said. “He’s literally the king of pop.”
Jackson’s 13 No. 1 one hits on the Billboard charts put him behind only Elvis Presley, the Beatles and Mariah Carey, Werde said.
“He was on the eve of potentially redeeming his career a little bit,” he said. “People might have started to think of him again in a different light.”
Friday 26th June, 09:51 AM JST
LOS ANGELES —
Michael Jackson, the sensationally gifted child star who rose to become the “King of Pop” and the biggest celebrity in the world only to fall from his throne in a freakish series of scandals, died Thursday. He was 50.
Jackson died at UCLA Medical Center after being stricken at his rented home in Holmby Hills. Paramedics tried to resuscitate him at his home for nearly three-quarters of an hour, then rushed him to the hospital, where doctors continued to work on him.
“It is believed he suffered cardiac arrest in his home. However, the cause of his death is unknown until results of the autopsy are known,” his brother Jermaine said. Police said they were investigating, standard procedure in high-profile cases.
Jackson’s death brought a tragic end to a long, bizarre, sometimes farcical decline from his peak in the 1980s, when he was popular music’s premier all-around performer, a uniter of black and white music who shattered the race barrier on MTV, dominated the charts and dazzled even more on stage.
His 1982 album “Thriller“—which included the blockbuster hits “Beat It,” “Billie Jean” and “Thriller“—is the best-selling album of all time, with an estimated 50 million copies sold worldwide.
At the time of his death, Jackson was rehearsing hard for what was to be his greatest comeback: He was scheduled for an unprecedented 50 shows at a London arena, with the first set for July 13.
As word of his death spread, MTV switched its programming to play videos from Jackson’s heyday. Radio stations began playing marathons of his hits. Hundreds of people gathered outside the hospital. In New York’s Times Square, a low groan went up in the crowd when a screen flashed that Jackson had died, and people began relaying the news to friends by cell phone.
“No joke. King of Pop is no more. Wow,” Michael Harris, 36, of New York City, read from a text message a friend had sent him. “It’s like when Kennedy was assassinated. I will always remember being in Times Square when Michael Jackson died.”
The public first knew him as a boy in the late 1960s, when he was the precocious, spinning lead singer of the Jackson 5, the singing group he formed with his four older brothers out of Gary, Indiana. Among their No. 1 hits were “I Want You Back,” “ABC” and “I’ll Be There.”
He was perhaps the most exciting performer of his generation, known for his backward-gliding moonwalk, his feverish, crotch-grabbing dance moves and his high-pitched singing, punctuated with squeals and titters. His single sequined glove, tight, military-style jacket and aviator sunglasses were trademarks, as was his ever-changing, surgically altered appearance.
“For Michael to be taken away from us so suddenly at such a young age, I just don’t have the words,” said Quincy Jones, who produced “Thriller.” “He was the consummate entertainer and his contributions and legacy will be felt upon the world forever. I’ve lost my little brother today, and part of my soul has gone with him.”
Jackson ranked alongside Elvis Presley and the Beatles as the biggest pop sensations of all time. He united two of music’s biggest names when he was briefly married to Presley’s daughter, Lisa Marie, and Jackson’s death immediately evoked comparisons to that of Presley himself, who died at age 42 in 1977.
As years went by, Jackson became an increasingly freakish figure _ a middle-aged man-child weirdly out of touch with grown-up life. His skin became lighter, his nose narrower, and he spoke in a breathy, girlish voice. He often wore a germ mask while traveling, kept a pet chimpanzee named Bubbles as one of his closest companions, and surrounded himself with children at his Neverland ranch, a storybook playland filled with toys, rides and animals. The tabloids dubbed him “Wacko Jacko.”
“It seemed to me that his internal essence was at war with the norms of the world. It’s as if he was trying to defy gravity,” said Michael Levine, a Hollywood publicist who represented Jackson in the early 1990s. He called Jackson a “disciple of P.T. Barnum” and said the star appeared fragile at the time but was “much more cunning and shrewd about the industry than anyone knew.”
Jackson caused a furor in 2002 when he playfully dangled his infant son, Prince Michael II, over a hotel balcony in Berlin while a throng of fans watched from below.
In 2005, he was cleared of charges he molested a 13-year-old cancer survivor at Neverland in 2003. He had been accused of plying the boy with alcohol and groping him, and of engaging in strange and inappropriate behavior with other children.
The case followed years of rumors about Jackson and young boys. In a TV documentary, he acknowledged sharing his bed with children, a practice he described as sweet and not at all sexual.
Despite the acquittal, the lurid allegations that came out in court took a fearsome toll on his career and image, and he fell into serious financial trouble.
Jackson was 4 years old when he began singing with his brothers—Marlon, Jermaine, Jackie and Tito—in the Jackson 5. After his early success with bubblegum soul, he struck out on his own, generating innovative, explosive, unstoppable music.
The album “Thriller” alone mixed the dark, serpentine bass and drums and synthesizer approach of “Billie Jean,” the grinding Eddie Van Halen solo on “Beat It,” and the hiccups and falsettos on “Wanna Be Startin’ Somethin’.”
The peak may have come in 1983, when Motown celebrated its 25th anniversary with an all-star televised concert and Jackson moonwalked off with the show, joining his brothers for a medley of old hits and then leaving them behind with a pointing, crouching, high-kicking, splay-footed, crotch-grabbing run through “Billie Jean.”
The audience stood and roared. Jackson raised his fist.
By then he had cemented his place in pop culture. He got the plum Scarecrow role in the 1978 movie musical “The Wiz,” a pop-R&B version of “The Wizard of Oz,” that starred Diana Ross as Dorothy.
During production of a 1984 Pepsi commercial, Jackson’s scalp sustains burns when an explosion sets his hair on fire.
He had strong follow-up albums with 1987’s “Bad” and 1991’s “Dangerous,” but his career began to collapse in 1993 after he was accused of molesting a boy who often stayed at his home. The singer denied any wrongdoing, reached a settlement with the boy’s family, reported to be $20 million, and criminal charges were never filed.
Jackson’s expressed anger over the allegations on the 1995 album “HIStory,” which sold more than 2.4 million copies, but by then, the popularity of Jackson’s music was clearly waning, even as public fascination with his increasingly erratic behavior was growing.
Cardiac arrest is an abnormal heart rhythm that stops the heart from pumping blood to the body. It can occur after a heart attack or be caused by other heart problems.
Billboard magazine editorial director Bill Werde said Jackson’s star power was unmatched. “The world just lost the biggest pop star in history, no matter how you cut it,” Werde said. “He’s literally the king of pop.”
Jackson’s 13 No. 1 one hits on the Billboard charts put him behind only Elvis Presley, the Beatles and Mariah Carey, Werde said.
“He was on the eve of potentially redeeming his career a little bit,” he said. “People might have started to think of him again in a different light.”
Wednesday, June 24, 2009
Nice one son we mananged to get rid of our last big items
A man came around yesterday and will take our Fridge, Sofa and some other items. That is very good, I don't think we have much left now. That is real good. So all going good, Kai is still a little ill so not so good there. I will try to get the top things out of the way before we leave Japan but if not then I am sure we will be back in Japan sometime in the future. I have been a little down the last few days but I will be so glad when we are living in Hong Kong with tennis courts, A Gym, Swimming pool and Beach for the kids. lol.
Tuesday, June 23, 2009
Last TV show before I leave Japan
This Saturday will be my last TV appearance in Japan before leaving Japan for Hong Kong. I will be sure to put it online, well that is if I can get there this time with my little boy Kai being sick. The TV show will have Helen on it again. David and I and some other guests not sure if they will be the same as the people on the show before.
Maybe I can be a famous Gaijin lol, its going to be funny when we leave Japan as my wife and I will both me Gaijin's.
If you are a Gaijin reading this I would recommend trying to get on TV in Japan its quite fun.
My other recomendations never buy anything new as its almost impossible to sell it, Look at Gaijinpot, Metropolis, TheBlackship and so on to see if you can get good things for free or very cheap.
Shopping, go on Wednesday and Sunday's about 8 or 9pm you will get allot of things half price, we went the other day to max value part of the Aeon chain and got nice Japanese beef for 1300 yen for 2 so cheap.
Maybe I can be a famous Gaijin lol, its going to be funny when we leave Japan as my wife and I will both me Gaijin's.
If you are a Gaijin reading this I would recommend trying to get on TV in Japan its quite fun.
My other recomendations never buy anything new as its almost impossible to sell it, Look at Gaijinpot, Metropolis, TheBlackship and so on to see if you can get good things for free or very cheap.
Shopping, go on Wednesday and Sunday's about 8 or 9pm you will get allot of things half price, we went the other day to max value part of the Aeon chain and got nice Japanese beef for 1300 yen for 2 so cheap.
Monday, June 22, 2009
Things to do before i leave Japan
One last Gaijin smash, I once read a website called Gaijin smash it was so funny the guy tells you things that only Gaijin in Japan can get a way with.
I guess maybe I will do the last tube smash that is buy the cheapest ticket and go to the ticket desk and say ticket not work they always let you through lol.
The Prison Pub in Shibuya I really want to go it sounds very good.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hdjWOVLMYMw
go to another onsen/spa
Put fears of public nudity aside and dip into a steaming-hot pool at a communal bath. These are known as sento or onsen – the latter uses water from hot springs. Japanese traditionally bathe in the evening, but communal baths are open for several hours in the morning as well.
Go back to the geek town one last time that is Akihabara
I guess maybe I will do the last tube smash that is buy the cheapest ticket and go to the ticket desk and say ticket not work they always let you through lol.
The Prison Pub in Shibuya I really want to go it sounds very good.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hdjWOVLMYMw
go to another onsen/spa
Put fears of public nudity aside and dip into a steaming-hot pool at a communal bath. These are known as sento or onsen – the latter uses water from hot springs. Japanese traditionally bathe in the evening, but communal baths are open for several hours in the morning as well.
Things to do in Japan: #3, take a communal bath
Don’t worry about soap and shampoo – these items are always provided, along with moisturizing lotion, cotton swabs, and hair dryers. Just be sure to first wash yourself at a shower surrounding the bath, rinsing all the soap off your body before getting in.
Soaking in steaming hot water is relaxing, meditative, and a great way to immerse yourself in Japanese culture. Communal bathing is a tradition that goes all the way back to AD 700.
Go back to the geek town one last time that is Akihabara
Things to do in Japan: #6, people watch
No matter what city you happen to be, there will be shopping districts. And that always makes for good people watching, especially in Japan where teenage fashion is so varied and extreme. Find a coffee shop or restaurant with a good view to while away a few hours. This is especially fun on a weekend in Tokyo’s Harajuku district, or any day of the week above Shibuya’s famous Hachiko crossing.
There’s a Starbucks with a great view of the crossing, with hundreds of pedestrians weaving in all directions at once in a mesmerizing stop-go-stop dance timed to the traffic lights. This type of crosswalk is called ‘scramble crossing’ and while there are about 300 in Japan, this one is the busiest, as it’s located right in front of the busiest train station in the world, Shibuya Station.
Gaze upon Tokyo from the 52nd floorIf you’ve seen the film Lost in Translation, you’ll know the view from the “New York Bar” in Tokyo’s Park Hyatt Hotel. It’s spectacular, and well worth shelling out the 20-odd dollars for a cocktail. From 750 feet in the sky, the immensity of Tokyo is a sight to behold, especially when the city is lit up a night, full of red blinking lights that make it seem as if the city was breathing. And from here, you can actually see the curvature of the Earth.
Things to do in Japan: #9, check out the view over Tokyo
If you’re only interested in the view, it’s best to get here in the late afternoon/early evening to avoid the nightly $20 cover charge for live music (the cover charge starts at 8 pm). The bar also offers a casual dining menu, and includes a $60 hamburger.
Sunday, June 21, 2009
A rather good weekend
This weekend was a rather busy one, We needed to sell a lot of our things as we are moving to Hong Kong in a few weeks We managed to get rid of a lot of crap which was nice, we gave most away free, Japan is very hard to get rid of second hand things, Maybe a good idea for a business would be to set up and storage place for people to store things or for gaijin to pick up unwanted items. The think with Japan the cost of moving is very high and even to chuck things away.
We have a Sofa, Fridge and some other big things that are almost new and we had trouble selling I have decieded now to put them on for free and still I have had no offers. :(. I really hope to sell them soon. lol.
Well we also had a real nice night out yesterday, My wife Hiroko and I and our 2 kids and Simon and his wife went to a themed resturant in Tsunashima, It was a shame as we did not get any pictures. The resturant was set in a fishing boat and you could catch what you wanted to eat. If you caught it you could get the fish half price. The funny thing was they auctioned a tuna head half way throught the night, Simons wife was trying to buy the head that was funny we were all thinking what would you do with that. lol.
My son Kaito really loved the fish and was so excited meeting other people at there tables. We managed to catch 2 snappers and 1 other type fish that was very nice.
The resturant is just opposite justco in tsunashima you can get the 51 bus there towards kawasake I would really recomend it.
take a trip on the Namboku or Mita line from tokyo to hiyoshi and change there 1 stop to tsunashima or you can take the hibiya line all the way there, however, some times you will need to change at Naka-Meguro. The catch the bus.
Please go its worth it. :) I can't remember the resturants name but you can't miss it. :)
We have a Sofa, Fridge and some other big things that are almost new and we had trouble selling I have decieded now to put them on for free and still I have had no offers. :(. I really hope to sell them soon. lol.
Well we also had a real nice night out yesterday, My wife Hiroko and I and our 2 kids and Simon and his wife went to a themed resturant in Tsunashima, It was a shame as we did not get any pictures. The resturant was set in a fishing boat and you could catch what you wanted to eat. If you caught it you could get the fish half price. The funny thing was they auctioned a tuna head half way throught the night, Simons wife was trying to buy the head that was funny we were all thinking what would you do with that. lol.
My son Kaito really loved the fish and was so excited meeting other people at there tables. We managed to catch 2 snappers and 1 other type fish that was very nice.
The resturant is just opposite justco in tsunashima you can get the 51 bus there towards kawasake I would really recomend it.
take a trip on the Namboku or Mita line from tokyo to hiyoshi and change there 1 stop to tsunashima or you can take the hibiya line all the way there, however, some times you will need to change at Naka-Meguro. The catch the bus.
Please go its worth it. :) I can't remember the resturants name but you can't miss it. :)
Sunday, June 14, 2009
Tokyo
Akihabara (often abbreviated to Akiba) is an up and coming part of
Akihabara started off as a district of electronics shops (cameras, televisions, etc.) but shifted focus to computers and consumer electronics (particularly mobile phones). Now the emphasis seems to be shifting to entertainment such as DVDs, animé, manga, Gundam robots, Godzilla memorabilia and unidentified goods. If you are interested in anime, manga or Gundam you will not fail to spend a lot of money in one of the many 7 storey stores that sell such goods along the main Chuo Dori thoroughfare. It is great to see manga and animé characters everywhere - they are even used on advertising billboards:
One of the many manga and animé stores in Akihabara:
Akihabara is also spawning its own popular culture. Since the first maid café opened in 2000, it has spawned a host of imitations. Maid services have also spread to other areas including opticians, foot massages and beauty parlours. Maids are also to be found posing and advertising a wide range of other otaku goods and services. They instil a general feeling of Moé in the Otaku, which encourages them to spend money.
Akihabara's station
Further up the street towards Chuo Dori were more maids:
This maid was attracting a lot of attention outside Akihabara station's
There are a huge number of maid cafés in Akihabara. Not all of them are staffed by maids. The St. Gracecourt café featured cute nuns instead of maids:
I should have visited this café!
On Sunday afternoons the Akihabara maids and other assorted promotional girls (and some men) seemed to really enjoy the attention from photographers, although they were a bit shy the rest of the week. I didn't summon up the courage to visit a maid café though. They're not actually very easy to find as most are on the upper floors of buildings and not all have English signs. This probably explains why there is the need to despatch a maid or two to Akihabara station to find more customers.
Not all of the girls were dressed as maids. Many Otaku love girls wearing glasses (Meganekko) and wearing cat's ears (Neko), so few Otaku will be able to resist this girl:
Sadly, like the rest of
Kawaii!!! This was one of the cutest things I saw in
If you've never been to
Be sure to visit Akihabara several times during your visit to
Friday, June 12, 2009
Today we went to the hospital as Kaito is a bit Sick.
Kaito was sick today, he has some virus in his ass poor little bugger makes it very hard and he crys when we change his nappy.
But to chear him up we took him to Karaoke, he likes it and was head banging to the music. It was quite funny. wish I would have got a picture, he got the mic too and was singing. I will miss the karaoke in Japan, its very good. Only another 4 more weeks and then I will be in Hong Kong. Hiroko, Ted and Kaito will follow in Aug.
Wednesday, June 10, 2009
After 2 long whole years here in Japan I guess I will be saying goodbye soon
My last day in Japan will be the 6th of July, Wow how sad I have enjoyed my time here but the economy is no longer stable and no jobs for me. I have found a job in Hong Kong and will be moving there from about the 31st of July after a 3 week stint in London. Maybe I can make a Hong Kong Guide and blog. :) I will try to continue here when I can and also leave pics of the kids and family.
Ted
Ted
Sunday, June 7, 2009
Were all going to the Zoo tomorrow, Well guess that should be been yesterday.
This is my wife with Ted in the park after seeing the animals in the park, Ted and Kai loved the animals esp the pengins.
The park we went to was in Kawasaki and the Zoo there was very nice a free. We live in Yokohama but it was very easy to get to. we got the bus from tsunashima the number 51 too kawasaki station and then the number 86 bus to the park but there are a number of ways you can even get the train to shin kawasaki station.
They have Moose, Pengiuns, Deer's, Monkeys, Kai, Aloy and Ted all loved the park. the Zoo was called Yumemigasaki Zoo
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