Courtesy of Mitaka Forest Ghibli Museum

Hayao Miyazaki is regarded as Japan’s greatest living animation director, and his Studio Ghibli holds most of the country’s box office records. Seen the movies? Then step into his world at the charming Ghibli Museum in Mitaka City, just outside of downtown Tokyo.

The Mitaka Forest Ghibli Museum opened in 2001 in Inokashira Park, one of the metropolitan area’s best-loved recreation spots. While the museum functions as both a showcase of fine art and a commercial theme park, it doesn’t follow the basic rules one might expect. In fact, it is designed with children in mind, and boasts a playful, sprawling and mazelike structure. The exterior features the beautiful European architecture characteristic of Miyazaki’s works, but once inside, all bets are off. There is no set path or viewing order. A winding spiral staircase dominates the central hall, but does not lead to all levels; some doors are child-sized; getting from one place to another often requires imagination and exploration.

In short, it is like the anti-Disneyland—a place to get lost and enjoy freely. A romantic notion, but problems with crowd control and pedestrian flow would seem the natural outcome. Fear not—the number of people allowed into the 4,000-square-meter complex at any one time is limited to around 600. Spots are on a reservation basis, with entry times set at 10 a.m., noon, 2 p.m. and 4 p.m. Note that while the staff won’t make you leave after you enter, if you are 30 minutes late for your entry time, you won’t get in. Tickets can be obtained at travel agents overseas or at Lawson’s ticket machines in Japan.

The basement floor offers an exhibition of the history and science of animation. One highlight is an ingenious 3D zoetrope that uses a table of Ghibli character models like Totoro, which when spun and put to synchronized strobe lighting appear to be moving. It is a truly magical experience, especially for kids, and demonstrates well the concept behind frames. After this, it’s a real treat to check out the extremely detailed animation studio populated by statuary pigs (classic Miyazaki—there’s even one that represents him) and filled with sketches, storyboards and reference materials. The process of making animation is illuminated in adjacent halls.

At the higher levels can be found a play area for kids (12 and under) dominated by a stuffed “Catbus,” and a staircase to a rooftop garden dominated by a giant copper robot soldier from “Laputa: Castle in the Sky.” This is a good place to take pictures, as photography is not allowed inside. The Straw Hat Cafe offers organic food, though the price and selection leave something to be desired. There is also a museum bookstore (mostly juvenile literature chosen by Miyazaki, and some by him or involving his characters) and a gift shop.

The museum’s rotating exhibits always include a show about animation (currently “Gake no Ue No Ponyo”), and the Saturn Theatre screens short films that can only be seen here. The movies, which rotate by month, have such titles as “Koro’s Big Day Out,” “Mom Mon the Water Spider” and “The Whale Hunt.” They are typically very high quality and sometimes experimental. Guests to the museum get one ticket to the theater per visit.

Adults: 1,000 yen; children under 12: 400 yen. 1-1-83 Shimorenjaku, Mitaka City (inside Inokashira Park). Entry by reservation only. Closed Tue. Nearest station: Mitaka (JR Chuo or Sobu line), then bus or 15 minutes’ walk.